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light not working
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
Compressor would not kick on and condenser fan ran constantly
Remove back panel on bottom of fridge to access compressor area. Remove screws from water solenoid and water valve and push to the side so the side of the compressor can be accessed. Then locate the inverter box. You will find a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the inverter. This is the only screw that hold the inverter in place. Remove the screw and tilt the inverter box forward away from the compressor, then lift the box out of the the holder. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it out. Remove the plug that attaches to the compressor and then with the power on check your voltage coming to the compressor. It should read 120 volt. If it doesn’t your inverter is bad. Remove the other plug on the inverter box and pull the box out. Reinstall the unit in reverse order. Use the appropriate jumper to plug into the wire connection going to box and then plug it into the connection off the fridge. Once everything is reinstalled and before you put the back panel on plug your refrigerator back in and you should be able to hear the compressor working or feel the top of it to make sure. If it’s working you are good and can reinstall the back panel. It will take 4-5 hours to come back to temp if it’s been off for any length of time.
-Pulled refrigerator out to access back. -Removed compressed paperboard cover. -Found compressor running by the feel. -Removed metal cover to control board. -Found ~5V coming from control board to inverter (variable frequency drive) board assembly attached to compressor. -Found ~120 going to inverter board. -Removed inverter board assembly from compressor. -Found equal resistance (~7 ohms for mine) at all three contacts of inverter (DC) compressor. -Ordered inverter assembly, plus one extra and control board for possible future use so not to loose all my food again; I might order a compressor so I have it before price goes up. -Installed inverter when arrived. -Used air compressor to blow out accumulated dust on condenser coil. -Closed up and cleaned up (C^2). -Fridge cooled and back to proper temperature the next day.
I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !
Super simple. Extremely fast delivery of part. Simply disconnect the 2 fast-on connectors to valve, disconnect intake and out lines. connect intake and out tubes to new unit, mount via screws to fridge, reconnect the 2 fast-on power connectors and your back in business. Could not be an easier repair.
I first replaced the ice maker and when that didn't work, I found out through this forum that another possibility is the water outlet valve.
When I got the replacement, it took some time to install because the bracket wasn't the same as the original. There are enough places on the bracket to mount the unit, but it may require using some force to bend the bracket so that it will flush with the wall.
After installation, it took about 2 days to fill up the ice bin. It cycles out ice crescents every 2-3 hours.
Thanks partselect for having this forum and saving me some money by having others share their experiences.
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
All the repair people was on the money . I read them all .1--- NO paper work with new valve (.no instructions) ..2--- bracket is not the same .. I reversed my braket and it worked fine .you do not have to bend bracket.3--- It will take a day or so to start making ice..4--- the plastic nut is no longer needed on the new type outlet valve ....5--- the new outlet valve looks a little different from the old valve. WORKS GREAT ..
My ice breaker started leaking and making noise anf the stripper broke.
I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.
