I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!
Socket for underside (over-the-cooktop) bulb apparently shorted
Got some info from the PartsSelect web site and a short YouTube video about how to replace the socket. (Even at 74 years old I'll be darned if I'll pay for a service call if I think I can do the repair myself). Unfastened all the panel screws, swung down the rear-hinged lower panel carefully, then took a couple of pictures showing which wires went to which side of the light socket -- and to the underside of the turntable because those pulled off by themselves when I lowered the panel). Pried off all the silicone sealer around the socket using my fingers, got the old socket out and replaced it, put the wires back in place, refastened the drop-down panel. It was a very easy, straight-forward task that would have taken <15 minutes were it not for the fact that my old eyes had trouble seeing all the screws, even with a flashlight. Everything works fine now.
Glass of burned out bulb broke leaving metal part in socket in microwave hood combo
Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.
This site was correct in description of what was causing the problem. I found broken white plastic parts in base of microwave, found they came from switch holder interlock support. Only reason it took me as long as it did is I did not make a diagram of the wires that I had removed.( would help to have easy access to wiring diagrams or have them on the internet ) But on the internet I found a Video by repairclinic.com the photo in the video pointed me in the right direction and allowed me to get my wiring in order the microwave then started up and runs correctly. As to the plastic parts found in the base of the unit, this unit was a floor model and probably had the door opened and slammed shut many times, breaking the Top interlock. Thanks to this site
Simply need a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the screen covering the light bulb. all you need to do is unscrew burned out bulb and screw in the new bulb. Much easier to order the bulb in the socket and pull it out the socket and plug in the new socket and bulb. because you have a limited space to work
It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.
Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.
Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.
Getter level with cabinet and use stud finder to make it easy.
I measured. I leveled. I mounted hanging bracket and here's where it got tricky because you need two people to raise the microwave into position. I'd stack 2x4's In the back by the wall. I'd stackem in the front on the cabinet top then raise the back and add more. You get it front back front back until it's high enough to snag the bracket. Holes pre drilled raise it on up tighten bolts and poof you're done!! I did loosen the screws that pull the cabinets together and the bottom screw that holes the cabinet on one side. It didn't seem like it needed it the way it slipped in but maybe it slipped in because I did it. Only takes a minute. Use a minute here save an hour there. Go do it! Times a wastin!!
Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.
The close door warning kept coming on and the microwave would not run
Don't waste your time with other parts stores online. Partselect sells quality parts and they arrived 2 days early. I purchase a door switch from another online store and the switch was defective.
remove 6 lower screws, removed lower panel,2 screws holding drive motor,lower motor, remove old coupling from inside microwave and replace with new coupling, re install motor,install lower panel and screws.no more sparks