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Burner wouldn't regulate temperature
Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
Compressor would not shut off at the maximum recommended pressure (150psi)
Removed face plate (4 screws). Removed 2 screws holding manifold in place. Detached wires from the switch. No need to mark them - they don't have to go back on any particular terminal. Remove the switch from the manifold with an adjustable wrench. Replace with new switch (thread sealing compound on the new switch is sufficient - no need for teflon tape). Reattach wires and reassemble manifold and face plate. Easy fix!
Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair
I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol
the part conections were different from the original.so the first i did was to call parts direct to see if someone will help.NOBODY WAS ABLE TO HELP. so i had to use a lot of common sense to install this my self.
The Range took forever to achieve the proper heating temperature with an inability to maintain a steady heat
I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.
Unplugged stove. Pulled stove out. Unscrewed screws and removed cover. Removed & replaced sensor. Reinstalled cover & screws. Plugged in stove and pushed back in. Only problem was when I pulled stove out, lid opened and disconnected the gas line to a burner.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
![](https://partselectcom-gtcdcddbene3cpes.z01.azurefd.net/12348164-1-S-Whirlpool-W11171119-6-amp-quot-Surface-Element-1200-W.jpg "6" Surface Element, 1200 W – Part Number: W11171119")
