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the washing machine would pump the water out, but the agitator would not spin, and it was making noise.
The video that was shown about how to perform the repair was spot on. I wasn't sure exactly what part I needed. I took the advise from you stating that these symptoms I described usually meant that the part I ordered was the correct repair In 65% of the cases. I was delighted to see that when I followed the instruction video, and the motor was removed, there was my coupling, In several pieces. At that point I knew that I ordered the correct parts. Thank You, Mario for Eastchester, NY.
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
Direct drive, no belt. Motor sounds like it's spinning but the agitator is not. Bought the coupling (that goes between the motor and the transmission) and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. Two screws and two clips to open the cover. Two clips to move the water pump out of the way. Two screws and two clips to take out the motor. Replace the coupling and reverse the steps.
Washing machine wasn't making proper temp, no cold on rinse cycle
Disconnect power, remove the three screws above the control panel, pull control panel from top toward you(it will hinge downwards) unplug wire harness from old ATC box, pull section knob off old ATC box front shaft, depress small tab on side of old ATC box and rotate box a quarter turn to free box. Install new ATC box, at a quarter turn till it snaps in place, replace selection knob ( make sure flat end of knob is lined up to flat end of ATC shaft), plug back in wire harness, push control panel back up, re install the three screws, turn power back on. Notes: Part numbers may differ from original, as long is the part looks the same it should work. This is the only circuit board component in my machine, and the only part to fail thus far.
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.
Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
Disconnect power & water then drain hoses. We flipped the washer on it's side to gain access to the bottom. There was no need to take off the back panel. Keep a 5 gallon bucket and a few rags handy for the extra water in the pump line. Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the brackets holding the motor. It's a little tight on the back bracket. It has a 1/4" hex nut on the back side, so I used a 1/4" drive socket (see: small). Removed the bolts holding the gear case (this makes it a lot easier). Disconnected the pump hose and rotated the motor & gear box and pulled forward. This gives you access to the coupling. Remove the broken part. Clean the area for debris. NOTE: each part of the coupling has 3 fingers (these are what breaks off), so check to make sure you get all broken parts. Insert the new coupling. It has 3 parts; the plastic fittings go on tight and need to be snug to the shaft. Use a screwdriver handle on the center and tap down with a small hammer. Spray silicone on the rubber coupler to allow a little better slide. Reverse the process. Line the gear box and motor up and push back into the tub assembly. We used 2 people to do this. It's easier to have someone stand over it and hold / rotate the gear box while the other one can align the motor & bolt everything back on. It took us an hour, however, if you were doing a couple you could get it down to 30 min. flat. Go wash your clothes!
Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss. 1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor. 2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve". 3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install. 4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft. 5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner. 6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place. 7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough. 8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place. 9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!
It was a really simple thing to do. Make sure to buy the agitator cam kit (a little piece broke when I was taking it apart). Take off the cover and then the nut that is underneath. Replace the agitator cam and that's it!!! Usually those agitators dog ears wear down with time so if the agitator assembly is not turning, check this first.
Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.
I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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dryer will not,dry clothes,but drum run
Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart 250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve
I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.
Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.
will not go over step by step here as there are already a multitude of stories on site with exact situation as mine who have already done so.. What I will say is that PartSelect is easily the absolutely best site on the net for a complete problem diagnosis to finished repair experience. Just input your model # and describe the problem and you get instant diagnosis probabilities along with access to a long list of customer Q & A and reviews, along with step by step videos on diagnosing, dis- assembling, and re-assembling along with links to all parts needed and also some secondary tips along the way. The prices are fabulous (example: I got a clutch assembly kit with several parts and 2 additional parts as a just in case for $55 shpg incl, while my local appliance parts place wanted $59 plus tax for just the main part in my assembly kit with a no return policy and no part guarantee, plus it was only 1 day more to have PartSelect pkg arrive than I would have gotten part from local store). This site is FABULOUS !!!