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Cracked Door Panel
It was a rather easy job. Estimated time :30.
1. Remove the old panel-remove the three screws on the side of the door. Using a putty knife, separate the panel from the door frame. There are built in plastic clips that will separate when you gently insert and lift the the putty knife.
2. Remove the glass insert-place the damaged door panel on a flat surface. Remove the inserted glass from the old panel by pulling back on the plastic clips. The plastic glass retainer will lift out permitting access to the glass. The glass lifts right out.
3. Remove the door handle-remove the two screws that hold it in place. It will come right out.
4. Install the handle-line up the holes with the new door panel and tighten the screws.
5. Install the glass and glass retainer-line up the glass first and then install the plastic glass retainer to keep it in place. Be careful not to break the plastic clips.
6 Install the door panel-align the door panel with the door starting at the top. Go around the door until the panel is in place. Insert and tighten the three screws on the side of the door. That's it, your done!
First I removed the 2 old screws that had the broken hinge peices in it. The I open the microwave door, snapped in the new peice and put in the two new screws. That was all it took!
I suspected the key pad,as I had a similar problem years ago. I removed the vent grill and the screw at the top of the keypad. Lifted the keypad slightly and tilted it downward, unplugged the keypad, and put the new one in place. The tricky part here is plugging in the new ribbon and ensuring its on the correct side of the contact block. A credit card made this a lot easier. The new keypad solved the problem and the rest of the family no longer thinks our house is haunted. Thanks --- m. S in a. G.
This is not easy to do. I done it before to replace a broken window and it was a real bitch. I considered buying a new door rather then do it again.All I wanted to do was tighten two screws that hold the handle. I used the advice found on your web site from a person who did it using quarters and putty knifes to remove the choke and the door insert. Sounded silly but it works like a charm. I advise anyone who needs to do this repair to use that info on your web site. It will save lots of frustration. Be sure to have plenty of quarters and a few pennies.
I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!
the burn thru was probably because stirrer motor was not turning, Unplug the microwave .freed the motor up bu manually turning. temporary fix. The cover is held up with small push pin clips. Just pry the cover off with a screw driver or other flat tool. Scrape offf the old silicone. There are two covers in the Kit. you just need 1. Remove the old clips for the roof of the microwave, put a bead of silicone on the new cover where the old was and secure the new cover with the push pins into the clips .
Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.
My husband unscrewed the three screws on the end of the door, popped the exterior door off and removed the old door handle to save the screws. He then attached the new handle to the new exterior door. He snapped it into place and replaced the 3 screws at the end of the door! NOW IT IS JUST LIKE NEW! Just a matter of minutes.
Very easy and fast. I wished that I could just replace the panel door instead of cleaning it everytime. It was easier and quicker to replace the door than it was to clean it.
The old grill had already been removed so the new one fit right in and it was only a matter of tightening the 2 screws to hold the new one in place. Simple. Looks great. No one will ever know it was broken.
I read previous hints on how to replace. All suggested using tile wedges removing the inner locking piece which would likely result in some broken tabs. I tried removing this inner piece and was sure the tabs would break. I removed the three screws on the handle side of the door and used a skinny flat head screw driver between the outer skin and both the inner piece and the glass section came out together. Access to the screws attaching the handle were accessible. With the screws out, the inner piece can fall off, remove it, replace the handle and the inner piece re attaches with no breakage.
Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.
display would show "Inch" and run thru 7,9,12 then start on its own. Also sometimes displayed "F2"
UNPLUGGED IT Remove 2 screws on top of the unit holding the grille in- remove the grille Remove the one screw at the top of the display and tilt the top of the display towards you. At the bottom is a hinge that slides up to be removed- leave the screw in place. The conector for the keypad is a ribbon connector that is attached to a black connector about 2/3 of the way up the circuit board- to release the ribbon cable the highest end of the connector has a plastic release clip that you can bend with your fingernail allowing the long edge of the connector topivot about the (lower) hinged end. Not hard to do just don't force it. Do not remove any wires-remove the screws holding the circuit board on (2 I think) at the bottom. The top of the circuit board is held in by sheet metal features in the housing- mine were a bit tough but its obvious how to remove it. The keypad/exterior sheet metal & display assembly should be free now- support and place display up on a work surface. To remove the current keypad CAREFULLY pry around the edge/junction of the ext sheet metal and the keypad. The keypad is held on with adhesive and will require some effort. Also the keypad extends slightly under the ext shett metal so it will be a pain. the goal is to start it peeling w/o damaging the sheet metal around it. To remove the remaining adhesive (& paper) use denatured alcohol. The new keypad is made to go under the ext sheet metal but it isn't possible to install it this way. I trimmed the edges of the new keypad so that it would drop in. You only get one try installing the keypad so make sure it fits before putting it in with the adhesive exposed. YOU MADE IT!! Is Fixed !!