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Inner door glass
Watched video and followed the very accurate and helpful instructions. A #2 Phillips screwdriver was the only tool required. This is an easy job for the average person.
REPLACE INNER GLASS ON OVEN DOOR on KITCHENAID SUPERBA RANGE
There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.
Video's did not show my door construction so I had some difficulty and surprises. One must disassemble and keep all parts in order of disaasembly with all screws for each part.separated. Be methodical and patient and it will all work out.
The replacement wiring harness arrived earlier than expected - good news. Once at the stove, I began the process of dismantling the range controls, but as no instructions were included with the part, this task was more time consuming than it needed to be. Nonetheless, I was able to remove the original harness. Next, I removed the replacement harness from it's shipping box to begin the installation. However, I quickly discovered that the wiring (both wires) had separated between the second block/pot and the third. From visual inspection, it appeared that the copper had simply broken off inside the block/pot. I did install the new harness to see if it would at least provide spark to ignite the two leftmost burners - it did. So at least 2 of the 4 burners will now light without using a match. I've ordered another replacement harness in the hopes that it's not defective, too. Partselect.com was quick to send a shipping label for the return of the first replacement and has promised a refund for the defective harness once it's returned.
The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
My son had first removed the 2 screws to disconnect the damaged element. He then removed the element by pulling it out and disconnected the wires.
I was si grateful when he was able to connect the new igniter so we could have cookies for Christmas...thank you for your very prompt delivery of the element and the ease to reconnect it.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
