Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No top Panel
(This is reply #2 of 2) After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws. After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. Theyt froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole. Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...
I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.
pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...
The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.
Easy fix for a verry poor designed door catch. Almost purposeful on the manafactures behalf to make it out of cheap plastic Remove 2 screws replace install 2 screws
Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.
the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.
Washer was bouncing and emitted a banging noise only when on high speed spin
I watched the videos and replaced the shocks and suspension springs. This worked to stop the unit bouncing completely and cut the banging noise in half. Further diagnosis revealed a damaged drum and outer shell. The repair itself was very simple and didn't require special tools or skills. There is a tricky shock absorber locking pin on the right shock bottom position. There is a control box of some sort that prevents the complete removal of the pin without breaking it. On install, I simply pushed the pin through from the front. Ultimately, I ended up replacing the unit. However, I found the site to be extremely helpful. Great service.
Simple install, remove the two screws holding the pump motor. Loosen the two hose clamps that hold the hoses in place. Pull out old pump motor. Place new pump into place, and install mounting screws and tighten. Slip drain hoses onto new pump and reinstall clamps. Check for leaks. Done.
Repair was easy watched video it was spot on I went to auto parts store and bought 2 screw clamps to replace the spring clamps and made repairs easier washer works great happy wife