Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Lightning struct the house and fried the evap thermostat
Noticed the evap fan wasn't working, so trying to disconnect the wire broke the connection so had to order a new motor. Installed the motor but it still didn't work. Had a technician look at it and he said it was the control board. Ordered and installed control board and still didn't work. The only element left is the evap thermostat. Jumped the thermostat and it worked so ordered and installed a thermostat. It works now
Evaporator fan motor quit and would not circulate cold air from coils.
Remove shelves and rear panels to get to motor. Motor is held in place on shroud by simple strap. Remove fan blade, then un hook strap, remove and save rubber spacers on old motor to reuse to remount new motor. New motor Mew motor has wiring harness that is universal. Cut out the three wires that go to the new motor leaving long as possible, cut wires from old motor as long as possible, strip ends of all wires 1/2 inch, connect wires by color,slip into provided wire connectors and crimp. Pull on wires to insure connection. Tie wires together so they don't touch the coils. Plug in and check operation. If all is working unplug and replace all covers and shelves. Plug back in and it will take few hours to reach operating temperature. Video of side by side repair shows easy removal of panels and motor.
removed ice maker,,and screws holding back of freezer cover,unplugged wires and removed the cover and fan.wow,only wire to element had come unplugged!went ahead and replaced thermostat,and defrost timer,both were easy to do
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.
Used a screwdriver and unstuck the tape holding the tube in place. Then, just wiggled the tube loose and snapped a new one in. Didn't bother trying to tape the new one. It stayed just fine. Space was a bit tight to work in, but not too bad. The most difficult part was figuring out that the water was actually coming from the fridge, not from a leaky faucet or drain. And the fridge was difficult to move, because it has no rollers in the front.
After waiting over 2wks for my part to arrive, I purchased the part locally and made the repair the same day as I am still waiting for the part to arrive from you guys. Your customer service really needs improving. I paid for 2 day shipping, what a joke. I will be returning the part as soon as I receive it thanks.
Door sagging, creating a gap to let in condensation
You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.
Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.
Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.