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First I determined the icemaker was the problem when it was no longer calling for water. You can hear that "whistle" for 6-7 seconds when it calls for water. Anyway, replacement was a piece of cake, but did not entirely fix my problem. I also had to flush the lines to the soloniods that allow water to flow through the filter and into the water storage tank because it was cloggged with a little piece of plastic.
refrigerator coil frozen up and kept the refrigerator from cooling
Remove front cover below door, remove 2 screws attaching the defrost timer to the refrigerator frame. Unplug wiring harness plug from timer an install new one. Remove metal cover in back of the freezer compartment. unpug the two wires going to the thermostat, remove the thermostat { thermostat is held onto the cooling coil with a clip} , remove thermostat and replace with new one
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Removed ice bucket from freezer. Remove ice. Remove 2 phillips head screws from the inside front of ice bucket, and 2 fromt the bottom front to remove the front cover. Remove the E clip and washer from ice crusher shaft. Remove 4, 1/4” head screws from ice crusher housing. Unclip the selector shaft from crusher door paying attention to position.Slide housing off of shaft and discard. Install new housing over shaft and install the 4 screws. Install selector shaft into door. Install the E clip and washer onto shaft. Install front housing with the 4 screws previously removed. Refill bucket with ice and install bucket back into freezing taking care to orient the ice screw shaft into the cog in the back of the freezer as well as the door selection shaft. Test operation.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
Ice maker would dump ice one time and then stop. Turning the ice maker off for a minute and back on would repeat the process.
I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.
It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
After disassembling, the thermal fuse I ordered were not and exact fit, I had to cut off the ring terminals, strip the insulation back and splice it in. It works.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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ice maker quit working/and it was leaking
BOUGHT NEW ICEMAKER TOOK TWO SCREWS OUT, UNPLUGGED THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. REMOVED OLD ICEMAKER, PUT TWO SCREWS BACK INTO REFRIGERATOR(DON'T SCREW ALL THE WAY IN AS THE NEW ICE MAKER WILL FIT ON. HOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND ADAPTER (THAT COMES WITH IT). PUT THE DRAIN TUBE IN ITS SPOT, HOOK ICE MAKER ONTO THE TWO SCREWS TIGHTEN EM DOWN. I DID THIS RIGHT BEFORE I WENT TO A BIRTHDAY DINNER WITH MY HUSBAND, WAS ALREADY DRESSED AND READY TO GO AND I TOLD HIM ILL PUT IT IN SO WE CAN HAVE ICE WHEN WE RETURN. ENDED UP BEING A SURPRISE PARTY FOR ME AND WHEN WE RETURNED WE HAD ICE. IT WAS SO EASY EVEN A GIRL CAN DO IT!!
I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.
Unscrewed (loosen) screws lifted unit out unplugged electrical connection. plugged in unit hung on screws tightened screws and had ice in less then 1 hour. Rick