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Watched video on U-Tube , unplug power cord, turn off water, take top off washing machine, remove water hoses, unscrew parts, remove hoses with pliers, install replacement parts, put all back together. Does not leak any more !
I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.
Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly! A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.
All I did was first of all and since it is so heavy I put 2 furniture sliders under the 2 front feat because I had to pull it out from where it was onto the carpet and the back feat I just sprayed some wd40 so the would slide on the tile floor. Then I took the top off by removing 2 bottom screws and pulled the lid back and up and there was the cold valve. Next I pulled the electric tabs off. Don’t worry they go on the same way they were on. Do not at this time remove the screws on the valve until you pull each off one at a time and place one at a time back on the new valve. Then remove the screws and the old valve and put the screws back on for new valve and you are done. Replace cold water hose turn on water check if no leaks replace lid, you are as if new once again. Good luck. Cost for all that is around $50
Entire machine must come apart to replace part. You tube installation instructions. They said at least a 3-4 hour job. Took me 4. I could see this repair costing at least 800.00 Would be worth buying a new machine but doing it yourself cost 225.00 and your labor
I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.
I researched the symptom, watched a repair video, ordered the parts: one rear bearing, seal, and gasket. After disassembly found inner bearing to be bad. Ordered inner bearing. Then found the spider or hub shaft corroded, and ordered spider. Finally with all the parts replaced, assembled washer and returned it to service.
During high speed spin mode noise similar to jet afterburners emanating from unit
Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.
The hot water inlet valve was leaking at the seal between the valve and cellinoid.
Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.
