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washer machine wouldn't move
first removed the 2 screws disconected the terminals, installed new switch connected wires back and test washer and it worked like new, i put a Jumper to get the washer to work while i got the parts. Also i received the parts in 24 hrs. Thank You.
Agitator coupling rubber separated from metal part
In my case the rubber bonded to the agitator coupling had stuck inside the agitator cover (plastic part that comes in contact with clothes). The metal part with the splines could not be removed by gripping with pliers. A pulling tool needed to be used to remove the tool. I used a valve spring compressor tool for overhead cam engines, but any pulling type tool with a center bolt and jaws that will fit between the rubber seal and the bottom of the agitator coupling would work. After removing metal part of coupling from agitator shaft and cleaning up the rusted teeth on the agitator shaft that caused the difficult removal, I pried out the rubber part of the agitator coupling from the plastic agitator cover by inserting a screw driver from the top hole in the agitator cover and getting it under the rubber to separate the toothed parts of the rubber from the matching grooves and then pushed it out the bottom of the agitator coupling. Then came the difficult part of the project - inserting the new coupling. I found the instructions that came with the new part very unrealistic and was not able to simply wet the rubber on the new coupling after installing it on top of agitator shaft and then push it into the plastic agitator cover - it simply would not go down more than 1/8" in the cover. If you attempt to do this job using the method described in the instructions you will likely end up with a damaged agitator, or cover as you will likely resort to hammering the cover on which is not recommended because of shock to agitator teeth. In my solution this is where a long bolt, 2 large diameter washers that the bolt fit through, several nuts larger than the bolt diameter and finally a nut that fit the long bolt came into play. Using these parts and a socket set with several long socket extensions I used the bolt, washers and nuts to draw the agitator coupling into position in the plastic coupling. This worked extremely easily once all the parts were in the right place and put no stress on any of the parts being assembled. To do this, first I installed the new agitator coupling on the agitator shaft - making sure it would remove fairly easily before continuing, then I pushed the agitator cover over the agitator coupling as far as I could to get it connected well enough to the agitator coupling so that when I pulled the agitator cover back off the agitator shaft the coupling would come with it (still in place with the rubber teeth from the coupling started in the corresponding grooves on the inside of the cover). With the agitator cover removed I placed a washer that was wider than the top of the agitator cover onto the long bolt (the bolt must be about 8 inches long) and then passed the bolt through the hole in the top of the agitator cover, through the splined hole in the agitator coupling (the bolt must be small enough in diameter to fit through the agitator couping hole). With the bolt and washer pushed all the way down on top of the agitator cover I turned the cover over and placed it upside down on the floor so that the cover pushed down on the washer and bolt and held them in place. I then used an extracting tool (something with little claws that protrude or retract) to lower first another washer large enough in diameter to cover the diameter of the agitator coupling bottom and then several nuts larger than the bolt diameter onto the exposed end of the bolt that comes out on the other side of the agitator coupling inside the long narrow tube of the agitator cover. Once I had enough nuts in place to leave only enough threads on the bolt for the washer and nut that fit that bolt, I set the nut on the end of the bolt and used the correct sized socket with several long socket extensions attached to it to hand tighten the nut onto the end of the bolt. Then securing the head of the bolt with a wrench to keep the bolt from turning, I placed a socket wrench on the extensions and socket that covered the nut and then tightened th
oil coming out of machine, pulley was throwing it everwhere
took motor lose and belt lose first, then took pulley off from the tub shaft, then made a big mistake, I took and pulled the lower shaft seal. lucky I had a pan to catch the oil about half a gallon. After that I could not find away to put oil in the gear box, so I took the drum out and that didn't work but it was a good thing I did because the inside drum was rusting so I spend money on the seal for nothing. Had to buy a new washer. If I ever did it again I would turn the whole washer up side down so the oil could not run out and I would put the oil in the hole where the seal was. lot of work for nothing.
Removing the piece above the tub gasket was very difficult. A lot of hammer and chisel work. 15 year old machine. A lot of calcium build up around the shaft. I used a screw driver as a chisel and a hammer. Carefully removed the metal around the shaft to get to the tub seal. Once I got to the tub seal it was easy. Remove the old rubber stops. There were a few pieces. Then sealed it back up with the oil that came with the PartSelect Kit and put it back together. Works great now. No more LEAKS! Yippy.
Removed 2 screws at bottom of the front panel - removed front panel by sliding the panel down about 1/2 inch and then away from the appliance- v belt is removed by pushing the tensioner pulley to remove tension from the belt and turning the pulley untill the belt is removed instalation is a simple reverse of the process. I did't have a repair manual so every step was trial and error untill I was able to complete the repair.
loosen the clamp holding the flex coupling then remove the 3 screws holding pump in place remove old pump and coupling best to have washer laying on it's face for easy access to screws. install coupling on new pump and install togeather then attach flex coupling to drive motor...
I pulled out machine turned off the water ,and unpluged the machine. Took off the hot and cold water hoses with help of vise grips. Next the two nuts which hold's the part to the machine(plate) and the nut that holds the part to the plate pulled out the part marked the four wires which go onto the part undid clamp on hose and pulled off hose. put the hose on new part , re-attached the wires , put part on plate and attached plate and part to machine hooked up hoses turned on water and plugged in machine . The washer does not leak and works great. I'm a 59 year old woman.
I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.
Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.
water continued to flow into machine during spin cycle
After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve. Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.
Washer machine would fill up with water and not spin and drain
Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.
Small water leak around front of machine and clothes would not spin dry.
Removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel on and slid the panel down to remove it, after first lifting the top panel and supporting it in the upright position out of the way. popped the two clips that hold the pump on, and used the pliers to remove the hose clamps on the pump. the pump was rusted to the motor shaft, so I had to use some force to pry it off of the motor. then i had to use some sandpaper to clean the rust off of the motor shaft. slid the new pump on and secured the hoses and hold down clips. then pushed the belt tensioner in and replaced the belt. the machine is like new again.
Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.
