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temperature not accurate after 3 1/2 years of happy usage
Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.
The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.
mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
Took 2 screws under front edge of smooth top. Unscrewed ground wire from back of smooth top unit. Unplugged 2 wire bundles, from back. Took bad element out , put in new one. Put back together. About 10 min's tops. Easy peasy.
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do: ) Move oven to get to the back panel ) Disconnect oven from power ) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off ) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off ) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly ) Screw the new motor in place ) Replace back panel ) Power on Oven DONE!
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.
The broiler element started sparking and melting in one spot. I thought it would catch on fire and quickly turned off the oven.
First we unplugged the range. My husband removed the old element using a screw driver. He also removed the back panel on the oven after pulling it out from the wall. He unplugged the broiler prongs and plugged in the new element, put it all back together using the screw driver. We plugged it back in, turned on the oven and it is working great! Simple and easy to do in a short amount of time. Cool!!
Google the error code that the range was displaying and found others with the same symptoms. Then found several people that had fixed the problem by replacing the oven sensor. I then ordered the sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem.
Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.
Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.
Moved the stove out from the wall. Took out the screws from the back and then from the top. I pulled the piece through the back to unplug the clips from the elements. But the wires went back through the openings. So I had to take the back off of the stove to get to the wires to put back through the holes in the stove. Once the clips were back together, I put the back back on the stove. Rebolted the part to the stove and moved it back.