WFE320M0EW0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

Followed instructions on urine that you provided. Instructions were great.
Only problem had was the screw was hard to get loose on one due to oven usage from previous people but I got it after a bit and then fairly simple from there. Unplugged and plugged new element in. Works although seems to run a bit hotter than before.

Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.

I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.

use needle nose pliers to disconnect the element from the power supply. After disconnecting it was easy to repair.

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Watched the video and did as shown

Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair