D/W leaked a puddle of water onto the floor every Load
I removed the old gasket simply by pulling on it. I compared its length to the length of the new gasket, figuring there would be some trimming to do -- there wasn't. The replacement was exactly the same. I placed a mark on the center of the new gasket, and marked the center of the mounting groove. I aligned the two marks, and pushed the new gasket into the groove, starting at the center, and worked my way out towards the two ends. After getting a majority of the new gasket to seat by hand, I GENTLY used the tip of a slotted screwdriver to ensure that the New Gasket was completely snapped into place. The fit was perfect, and no more leaks. This repair was so simple, I'm embarressed for putting it off for so long. ;)
I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.
A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.
The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming. After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now. I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.
I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading. 2. Drain all remaining water. 3. Unplug the dishwasher. 4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate. 5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove. 6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order) 7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate. 8. Plug in
Prepared by watching the video. Great instructions. Great.
Disassembled easily as per video. Removed the old latch and installed the new.
Began the reassembly and learned that after ten or more years the small plastic parts used to keep the dishwasher steady had slowly deteriorated to the point that I was breaking these necessary items faster than I was putting the appliance back together.
What was a half hour task became over two hours and the end result was for me to put my tools away and buy a new dishwasher the next day. I learned that if your appliance is over ten years old BUY A NEW ONE!
Great job by the people who make and sell the latch parts for you who own a dishwasher that is only a few years old.
The rack stop clip on the upper right rail broke. I ordered two replacements and installed the part in about 15 minutes!
I pulled the upper rack out of the dishwasher. I then removed the broken rack clip stop on the right side and reinstalled the new replacement clip. I then put the rack back onto the rollers and voila, the upper rack no longer fell down off of the tracks!! Problem solved and the replacement clip only cost $8.95!!
Friction sleeve had torn, resulting in dishwasher door 'falling' when opening.
I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.
I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.