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Disconnected the water hose entering and one electrical plug alone with one screw that holds the valve to the machine. Replaced the old with the new and it worked.
Ordered p/n PS10057154, sold as a kit of TWO upper rack tine rows. I received one. Customer service issued a return tag and ordered a second kit, which again was supposed to be two rows. Replacement order arrived with just one. Fortunately, I had expected this and had not yet returned the first kit. Called customer service and told them not to expect the return of the first order.
This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.
Dishwasher door drops quickly to wide open position when unlatched
Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.
Open dishwasher door.
Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.
Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.
Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.
Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.
Repeat for right side of door.
Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.
Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.
Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.
I took the top dishwasher rack off, then took off the old clip I had taped on. I hadn’t watched the video so I put the new one on by looking at the other side rail and inserted the new part matching the other rail, clicked the new clip on and I was done. it was quite easy for an eighty-one year old woman!! It did take me awhile to figure it out.
Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!
heater showing signs that it was going to fail soon
removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..
First i turned off the water and the power, then removed the two screws to the access panel under the door. Then remove 1 screw to the electrical box and removed the wire nuts and pulled the cable out of the box. Then disconect the water supply which is up front, but very little room to work. I didn't have to diconnect the drain hose because it was long enough for me to pull out the machine. After removing to screws that hold the machine to the counter you can pull it out. Remove 2 wire from the terminals of the heat coil. Unscrew the plastic nuts from the washer and remove. Assemble in reverse order and check for leaks. I tested the old element as well as the new element for resistance before installing.
1. Open dishwasher door, to access the screws holding dishwasher to cabinet.... remove these screws. 2. May need to shut water off and unscrew water line and waste line (if they aren't long enough because you will need to pull dishwasher out. 3. Unplug electricity 4. Pull dishwasher all the way out... probably need to disconnect the water and waste lines 5. crescent wrench to unscrew the plastic screws in back 6. Disconnect two wires going to element 7. Replace element... reverse steps 8. Not too bad at all 9. Part Select is Awesome !!!!
Since there were no printed instructions, we looked at the photo schematic. Reassembly using the photo was easy by putting the old rack alongside the new one and adjusting the new rack spacing to match the old one. We also had new wheels which snapped on. We were delighted to repair and replace this good, older dishwasher rather than purchase a new one!
Heating element went out, dishwasher wouldn't work
I checked the manual to determine the code meaning for 7 blinks, it was heating issue. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. When the part came in, I googled the internet for "How to replace a dishwasher heating element". There were several options, I chose one that was a video showing a handyman go through each step. I followed the steps, with no problems, and WA-LA! Felt good (as the wife of the house) to do it myself!