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thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.
I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process
As washer had been in place for several years, decided to go for new arms rather than clean the originals. Simple twist of the wrist to remove and another twist to install each new one. Slick as a whistle. Seem to work just fine. Thank you, EG
Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher
Heating element not heating for both wash and dry.
Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.
The dividers were breaking off the top rack of our dishwasher. Order new rack and installed in minutes. Works great.
Took out old rack by twisting the rack supports. Used old supports because in good shape. Removed the wand from old rack and placed on new rack. Then replaced the supports. Worked great.
Dishwasher leaked occasionally due to age and condition of old gasket
Repair was a "no brainer". Pulled out the old gasket, started the replacement of the new gasket in the lower right hand corner and worked all the way around the opening, then trimmed excess gasket of about 2" with a pair of scissors and I was done. Total time - less than 5 minutes.
I opened the dishwasher door, removed the old tired seal in a manner of seconds. I measured the old seal against the new, same length, so no cutting. I started on one side pushing the seal in to the groove, made sure the seal was centered in the door. (not too long on one side or the other) It took less than 5 minutes to place the seal and check that it was all the way in, all around the door. I wiped the door down with some cleaner, where it contacts the seal. The door was harder to close, but I expected that until it breaks in. I ran a short load in the dishwasher with no leaks. :)
I removed the front of the dishwasher. Then removed the old dispenser assembly, and installed the new one. I don't have as many tools as I need here in our winter residence, so the job took a few more minutes than it would if I'd have had the correct tools.
Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.
Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.
I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!
