the oven did not heat, the lightbulb was burned out and there was a screw missing on the door frame.
I read the online instructions sent in by previous diy'ers. the repairs, esp. the heating element replacement went just as described and went really well. I have used the oven and it works beautifully. Total cost of parts was a little over $60.00. Piece of cake!
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
We took the door off, you have to be careful of the hinges popping back. We put small screwdrivers on each side and held the hinges out, this made the door easy to just stand up and slide back on the hinges. The glass replacement was simple just a few screws. We spent $127.00 on the part and shipping and a new wall oven would have cost us $1500.00. Thanks for making this part available.
My husband removed the old element and replaced it with the new one. I think he used a screw driver to remove and replace. The part shipped and arrive in 5 days. Quick and easy!
The most difficult part of the repair was removing the two Phillips screws that attached the element to the back wall of the oven. With some WD40, and a hammer to tap on the screws through the screw driver (and several hours) the screws finally came loose. Once the screws were out it was a matter of removing the two wires connected to the element and reconnecting the wires to the new element. After removing the screws this job took less than 5 minutes.
Rupture of bake element through coating causing flaming and sparks in oven.
We removed the 2 screws at back of oven that hold element on, which took some doing as they were very rusted. We then pulled old element out; this proved a bit difficult because the ends of the old element were stuck in the insulation behind. We had to wiggle the old element back and forth a bit to get it loose from the insulation. Other than that, it was easy.
Remove screws, remove old coil, place new coil, screw back in. The hardest part of this task is removing the existing screws which are most likely partially corroded and hard to move.
The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.