Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer was not heating
We pulled the back off the dryer and we weren't sure where the problem was exactly. So we pulled off the heating element and the thermostat. The heating element seemed to be burnt out, so we ordered that and the thermostat. We got the parts very quickly, so we put them in and found that the dryer still didn't heat. There was another thermostat (trip thermostat) that we decided to order and try...bingo...that was it. Now it works like a charm.
Un plug or remove power before you start. First you would have to remove the rear panel of the dryer. All you need is a quarter inch nut driver. Then look at the bottom right side of the dryer. There you will see the heating duct. At the very bottom is where the element is. There are two screws on both sides( they will all be removed with a quarter inch nutdriver ). After you have removed the four screws holding the element on you will have to remove two wires from the elemet be sure that you mark them and dont mix them up. You will also have to remove the round temperature sensor because you will have to reinstall it on the new element. Then you get new element and reverse the order of my directions. Good luck and be safe ALL WAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES.
thought the heating element was bad, once inside the element looked good, tested continuity , tested good. further test revealed I only had 110 volts at the wall outlet,traced problem to fuse blown in disconnect box under the house. Did not need the heating element.luckily parts select is taking the new element back since I did not use it. Hope this review helps.
Pulled the dryer away from the wall took back cover off the dryer. Used volt/ohm meter to identify the bad element. Ordered the element it came in two days. 2 screws and 2 wires to plug in and we were back to drying cloths
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.
It's amazing... I fixed my dryer!! I am a 47 year old woman with no technical training, and I did it!
I live in a apartment and I bought the Whirlpool Dryer (Model #LER7646JQ0) USED for $150 about 6 months ago. The dryer started blowing cold air, so I called the place that I bought it from and they quoted me a price of at least $300 to fix the dryer.
After searching through google, I found the partselect.com website, and read the repair stories. I decided to take a chance. I ordered just 2 of the suggest 4 parts that could fix the issue, and the dryer did not work. The next day I order the other 2 parts, and that did it - my dryer was fixed.
The diagrams on the site were a little confusing to me (the dryers looks a little simpler inside) but it was easy to repair. I used a screw driver and plier to do the repair, however it would have been much easier if I had a socket set. I would suggest buying all parts suggested, and return the items you don't need. Here are the parts I used:
1. THRMST-FIX (Thermostat, High Limit 221 F 2. USE WPL 279838 (Heating Element (10" long x 6" wide) 3. Thermal Cut-Off Kit 4. Cycling Thermostat (Limit: 155-25) (Thermostat, Internal-Bias)
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
*as with all electrical repairs I unplugged dryer from the outlet*
I disconnected the wires to the heating element, removed the 2 nut screws holding the heating element in place and removed the defective heating element. It looked like the heating element had darkened on the lower end and the wire terminals definitely looked like they had built some resistance that lead to the connection wire melting.
I slid the new heating element in and replaced the 2 screws. I cut the melted portion of the connection wire about 1/2" beyond the melted area and stripped the wire jacket exposing clean wire. I took the connection kit & clean wire lead, divided the wires into 2 groups on each end and braided them together and twisted them to a hand tight grouping. I then took the lead cap and twisted into onto the braided wire connection until it was also hand tight and snug.
I then reconnected the heating element connection wire back to the terminal end of the heating element and made sure all connections were snug.
I plugged the dryer back in, reset the dryer by turning the dial to a timed setting then back to off. I set the heat to low turned the dial to a time dry and turned on the dryer to ensure the element heated up and that the wired connection was secure. After 20 - 30 seconds, the element maintained heat and no issues were found with the fixed wire.
I replaced the dryer back and all screws and reconnected the vent hose. Dryer has worked great for the last few weeks with no issues. I was really surprised it was that easy to fix.
Needed to repair and replace dryer motor pulley and pully
this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.
My dryer was running way too hot and the temperature settings didn't make any difference. Clothes were shrinking and coming out almost scalding hot. I followed simple directions posted on you tube for troubleshooting this problem. I checked that there were no lint blockages, visually inspected all connections and hardware. All seemed good. Metered out all thermostats and fuses. Everything checked good for continuity. For the reset-able thermostats, I heated them on a hot plate to verify that the normally closed switches opened near their specified temperatures. Dont do this for the non-resetable fuses and thermostats. If you're not sure, avoid this step. Only the hi-limit thermostat seemed to open a little higher than expected but I couldn't with 100% accuracy determine the exact temp it opened. Made sure the heating element wasn't shorted in its housing or that too might give the dryer the same symptoms. That checked good too. Only thing left I could think of was to change that hi-limit thermostat. Ordered part, removed and replaced. Perfect fit. Op-checked good. All heat settings now operate normally. No more shrunken clothes that are too hot to touch even on the lowest setting lol. Hope this helps, happy hunting.
Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
