Replacement was extraordinarily easy. It took about 5 minutes, including the time to find my tools and put them away after I was done. As others have warned, only the handle itself was shipped. The trickiest part was being careful not to break the little plastic cover at the bottom of the handle when I pried it off. Apparently a screwdriver under any edge would have worked okay. There were three Phillips-head screws (replacements were not included in the package!) - and that was it.
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.
refrigerator stopped cooling due to condenser over-heating
Pull refrigerator out to access back, unplug unit and remove the 3 .25" screws cut the power leads to motor and install new with easy to understand instructions provided with new motor. Plug refrigerator back in and enjoy your cold beverages once more. EASIEST REPAIR EVER.
removed upper freezer door, then removed refrig door,laid door on 2 saw horses, removed screws holding old gasket on,removed old gasket, installed new gasket as instructed by the on-line video,used an electric hair dryer to soften up gasket and work out the kinks,remounted he doors and i was done. door is back to sealing properly. the on-line video was very helpful
Take off freezer door to take off refrigerator door. Once fridge door off, put freezer door back on, lightly screw in place. Lay fridge door down flat on table. Take out all screws. Put new gasket in, while putting a few screws in to hold in place. Screw down. Use blow dryer to help get any kinks out. Easier than I thought it would be. I think my door is a little warped, but the gasket was enough to make it seal. No more condensation, and the fridge isn’t running all the time. Thanks parts people! Haha.
Fridge was dripping water (condensation), gasket was clearly deteriorated
I did not remove the door from the fridge deciding to replace the gasket while the door was still attached. Next time I will follow their suggestion to remove the door and lay it down. I didn't realize that when you take the screws out (And there are A LOT of screws!) the whole panel comes off the door. It also took a long time to clean the door and panel with years of dirt/mildew to deal with. I had a hard time trying to get the kinks out with a hair dryer, didn't seem to work. Putting the new one on and screwing it back in place was pretty easy (would have been easier if it was laying flat). There are a couple of places where the seal is not perfect because of the kinks, but not going to worry about that.
did not remove the doors. did freezer first ,removed inner door planel install gasget on panel and reinstalled. the aloney problem i had was trying to resape the door gasget on the big door. which is still a little out of shape hopeing it will fall in line over time.
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
