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noisy fridge, perimeter of door heating up
figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.
Light wouldn't always come on when door was opened.
Removed the 6 screws that held the panel up, pulled the panel down. Removed the wires on the old switch. Pulled out the old switch, and pushed the new one back in place. Attached the 2 wires, pushed panel back into place and installed the 6 screws. Pluged back in and light works every time the door is opened now.
Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!
Burned out socket, right side of refrigerator compartment.
I was changing a defective bulb and somehow the hot lead for the socket got grounded, and arched. This made the socket defective. I simply took out the defective socket and replaced it with the new one I ordered. Working fine now. PCH
Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)
I removed two screws holding the assembly. removed the assembly then toke the roller and bracket out of the houseing and replaced with new part. reverse the procedure for installation.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Very easy to do -- removed a screw - pulled the broken center rail away and replaced with new one -- realigned the humidity control band - installed the new roller on the rail -- reassembled the unit and done!
Note to those ordering new rollers. The mounting screw for the roller is not in the bag -- apparently it's ordered separately -- very strange -- seems like they should come together.