I removed the back panel, about 6 screws, then found the probe which was attached by 2 screws. Unscrewed them and unplugged it. Plugged the new one in and replaced all the screws. The oven works like a charm now! No more F3 errors!
I searched the item I needed and followed a link to PartSelect.com. I paid a little extra for shipping and literally recieved the part in two days. The part was an absolute perfect fit and my wife and myself have never been happier. Home cooked meals again thanks to the folks at PartSelect.com. It couldn't have been an easier.
2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.
3) Remove the grills.
4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.
5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.
6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.
7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.
8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.
Make sure you unplug the oven before you begin. I removed the old igniter. The top wire on the igniter goes to the back of the oven and plugs into a flat blade type connector. Instead of using the twist wire nut I used a flat connector because it was easier to put on and is foolproof. Make sure you cut the plastic insulation off the connector so it does not melt when the oven is in use. I used a wire nut on the other wire and that was it. Very simple and the oven works great again.
The temperature was irratic the entire time the stove was on. I would set it for 350 and it would go up to 425 then down to 275. It was all over the place.
It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!
removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw} disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model
Since the burner was rusted I decided to replace the entire burner not just the igniter. Ifound that it was more cost effective to put in all new instead of a cheap quick fix. I took a socket wrench to the screws and a cresent wrench for the gas lines. Shut off gas first. Disconnect gas lines first then unscrew the three screws remove then replace with new burner attach screws connect gas lines. Turn on gas check for leaks close cover all finished.
The oven would take forever to heat up, and sometimes not at all. Othertimes it would heat up, but not stay hot for the entire baking time.
First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of the oven and it popped right out.
There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.
Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.
It was very easy, The PartSelect company sent a detailed instruction sheet. I did not expect that! The sheet was completely detailed with everything I needed to do the job efficiently. They even gave a tool list for the job! I have bookmarked this company as my supplier for not only parts but very useful information in regards to appliance repair. I got more information from here than I could get from the repair guy at the appliance repair shop in town!!!I only had 1 day before Thanksgiving to get this done and WE HAD AN AWESOME TURKEY DINNER ON TIME AND DELICIOUS! I will be ordering again! Prompt service, correct parts, and a big bonus the instruction sheet with a tool list! AWESOME! GREAT COMPANY TO DEAL WITH!!! We will be ordering again! THANKS MUCH for taking the stress out of a holiday!!! DAVID TAYLOR and FAMILY!!
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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error sensor on display when oven was used
I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com! Jim
The latch for locking the oven during the self-cleaning cycle was broke and would not lock
I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select