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Top of refrigerator and freezer are warmer than bottom. Also, a large amoutnt of ice build up in the back of the freezer.
**Before you order a new part make sure you get the FULL model number off of the back of the refrigerator** To even get to the back panel I had to melt the ice in the back of the freezer with a hair dryer. Once the ice was gone I removed 5 screws that held the panel that covers the coils. I melted more ice from the coils. I disconnected the connector for the old heater wiring harness and pooped the thermosat off. Then, removed the screws that held the heaters (2 per heater). Installed new heaters and connected wiring harness. Snapped new thermosat on. Replaced coil cover and plugged it back in.
Solenoid controlling the valve had stopped operating.
I first tested to make sure the solenoid was receiving power. Every time the arm on the ice maker cycled, the meter would go up to 120v for about 10-15 seconds, and then back to almost 0, so I knew the electical control and timer was working as it should.
The valve was easy to change - took about 20 minutes total (including pulling the fridge out and pushing it back in). I just turned the water off, removed the valve assembly from the fridge, and took all of the lines off of the old one. I then hooked up the supply line to the new valve assembly. The lines to the water and ice had compression fittings on them, but the new vavle has a "push-in" connector. So, I cut the old water and ice lines squarely, just past the fitting, then pushed them in firmly. Plugged the connectors in, re-attached the vavle assembly to the fridge, turned the water back on, and viola - I had ice in about an hour! Gravy! :)
First I removed the light cover, one screw. Then I removed the rear coil cover, three Phillips screws and two hex head screws. I then defrosted the coils and removed the old defrost element and wiring harness, two hex head screws held in the element, wiring harness just unplugs. I the installed the new defrost coils ( new one had two coils but had a previously designed area for the second element ) and ran the wiring harness up to where the plug was. I then reinstalled the coil cover plate, and light guard and started the refridgerator. Frige runs like new. Thank you PartSelect for the extremely propmt delivery and the correct part. part
removed freezer racks and back panel. removed and relaced defrosting harness. reassembled compartment PartSelect rocks! easy to locate needed parts. price is fair and quick shipping. saved me $$$$
Refrigerator Gasket had split and causing excess sweating inside of refrigerator whick was cauing water to drain out the front door damaging the floor.
Very simple fix. I loosened all screws with a nutdriver, removed old seal by pulling it out from under the retaining plate. replaced new seal and tightened screws.
Refrigerator is not cooling. Light and fan working. Changed the capacitor.. Still not cooling. Back to discovery mode.It may be the timer Certainly not PartSelect's fault. They have great service.
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.
Refrigerator would begin to lose it's cool and we saw ice caking on the bacjk panel of the freezer section.
We had to empty the freezing section, remove the 4 screws that held the back panel and defrost the coils. Then with the diagram we got from the internet, we removed the defroster and easily installed the new one and put the back panel back on. We did find later that it was still icing over so I ordered the thermostat and we installed it today. It too was easy to install. We spliced the wires and hooked the new thermostat to the old wires and reinstalled the back panel. Hopefully this will solve the problem for us now.
Door wouldn't stay closed; fridge alarm went off constantly
I removed the door from the fridge by taking off the screws that held the top plate on. I then removed the old broken cam from the door and the old hinge pin on the fridge and replaced them with new parts. I then put the door back on, screwed the top plate of the door into the top of the fridge, and with a few minor alignment adjustments with the freezer door, I was done.
Fridge not cold & DE light flashing on status panel
Removed all the freezer shelves/trays. Removed screws top and bottom on back panel. Found coils completely frozen over. Used heat gun to completely melt all the ice. Found that the Defrost Heater actually includes a new Defrost Thermostat (unlike the service manual shows). Unplugged and unsrewed the old Defrost heater parts and unclipped the Defrost Thermostat. Installed the new parts, put everything back together, and returned the unneeded Defrost Thermostat for a refund. It's been working fine ever since.
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!