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Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two. 1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins. 2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge. 3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge. 4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed on floor. 5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge. 6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place. 7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate. 8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate. 9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge. 10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door. 11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door. NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again. 12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.
Cams on Hinge assembly broken, door didn't close properly
I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height. Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door. I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts. I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
Refrigerator would begin to lose it's cool and we saw ice caking on the bacjk panel of the freezer section.
We had to empty the freezing section, remove the 4 screws that held the back panel and defrost the coils. Then with the diagram we got from the internet, we removed the defroster and easily installed the new one and put the back panel back on. We did find later that it was still icing over so I ordered the thermostat and we installed it today. It too was easy to install. We spliced the wires and hooked the new thermostat to the old wires and reinstalled the back panel. Hopefully this will solve the problem for us now.
Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two. bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!
Tempered glass cover for fruit/vegetable bin broken
Upon receipt of the replacement tempered glass cover I was able to place the glass onto the grooves and slide the cover in place. The replacement took a couple of minutes.
Also note that I received the replacement glass with standard shipping in approx 3 days.
Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.
When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect. I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.
Lets start with the hard part: Convince wife to get a couple of her girl friends to go to a movie and see the Reader,after that visit a cafe or pub (remembered years ago the English Patient). Drove to get a six pack,removed the back panel-2 min, set a hair drier to position, had a couple beers , removed the defrost heater unit 1 min. replaced it 1 min. back panel1 min,enjoyed the rest of the afternoon,finished the beer Killed two birds with one stone Zoltan L Petho
Refridgerator quit cooling because the defrost element had burned out and the refridgerator coils were totally covered with ice.
I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.
Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!