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Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two. 1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins. 2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge. 3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge. 4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed on floor. 5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge. 6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place. 7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate. 8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate. 9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge. 10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door. 11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door. NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again. 12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.
Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two. bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!
Tempered glass cover for fruit/vegetable bin broken
Upon receipt of the replacement tempered glass cover I was able to place the glass onto the grooves and slide the cover in place. The replacement took a couple of minutes.
Also note that I received the replacement glass with standard shipping in approx 3 days.
Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.
Pretty much self explanatory.Removed drawer and anything on top of glass shelf.Remove two screws holding on slide.Replace with new slide.Repeat on other side.Replace shelf and drawer.
First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket
repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.
Fresh Food section door made a click noise on closing
Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement. It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also. To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam. Replace in reverse order. Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.
rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
Very easy. The top rail was replaced with the new part. The lower rail was found broken upon removal of drawers, and not having a second new rail, I made an aluminum inser for the screws to hold fast and attached it with fiberglass tape and CA . I realy was impress with your fast service and knowledge of interchangable parts from other bran makers. We got an GE brand part instead of a Kenmore but It worked perfect. Thanks for your NEXT DAY delivery. .
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
Lower door hinge cam worn out/door dropped, not sealing
Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.