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stopped making ice
First I turned off the water supply. Then I removed the ice bin and the ice maker by removing 4 screws and 3 electrical connections. This allowed access to the evaporator fan which was not moving. To remove the evap fan I removed two screws that hold the fan bracket. The fan assembly now had to be pushed back and rotated to remove from hole. There are 3 electrical connections that have to be disconnected from the fan, one ground wire that also is connected to the fan bracket and 2 power connections. Installing the new fan was the reverse of the above except the power connections were in a different location and i had to use the extension wires provided with the new fan to have the length needed to make the connection.
Lets start with the hard part: Convince wife to get a couple of her girl friends to go to a movie and see the Reader,after that visit a cafe or pub (remembered years ago the English Patient). Drove to get a six pack,removed the back panel-2 min, set a hair drier to position, had a couple beers , removed the defrost heater unit 1 min. replaced it 1 min. back panel1 min,enjoyed the rest of the afternoon,finished the beer Killed two birds with one stone Zoltan L Petho
1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator. 2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head. 3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel. 4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs. 5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect. 6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid. 7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire. 8. Remove the three screws. 9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid. 10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove. 11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling. 12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid. 13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary. 14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten. 15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten. 16. Gently reconnect the two plugs. 17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly. 18. Replace the 4 screws. 19. Snap the face plate back into place. 20. Turn on the power and give it a try!
I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.
This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!
Refridgerator quit cooling because the defrost element had burned out and the refridgerator coils were totally covered with ice.
I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.
Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.
Water line was broken at the bottom of the freezer door.
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.
I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.
p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.
Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.
Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate 1. Turn off the power. 2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet. 3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel. 4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips. 5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner). 6. Remove the flap assembly. 7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel. 8. Install the new flap assembly. 9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality. 10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
