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support clip broken.
After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.
The cam broke apart and the pieces were on the floor. The door did not close automatically. This was on the freezer side.
I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.
Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
defrost heater burned out. Lots of ice in and ont he evaporator. Both breezer and refrigerator do not cool right.
Disconnected power. Removed evaporator cover in freezer. Removed the bad defrost heater. It is a glass tube about 10" long. The tube was black since the internal heater wire burned out. Use a hair dryer to melt ice in evaporator. Since there was excessive water coming from melt ice, I removed the back panel and took out the white plastic drain tube and collected water from the tube in a bucket. I put everything back and used the refrigerator for three days without problem, before the new heater arrived. Then I put on the new tube and everything was fine so far.
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
Removed panel from inside the back of the freezer section, by removing four screws. Then, sprayed the ice build-up on the coils, with hot water until all of the ice was melted away. (Note: be certain to plug the drain hole, and use several towels to catch the water drainage. ) Removed the Defrost Heater Element by removing two holding screws. Unplug the unit and pluged-in the new unit and replaced all screws as originally mounted.
Refrigerator is not cooling. Light and fan working. Changed the capacitor.. Still not cooling. Back to discovery mode.It may be the timer Certainly not PartSelect's fault. They have great service.
Left Side Veggy Drawer Slide Rail Broken . Drawer Drops Down
Empty veggy drawer. And slide out top glass shelf of drawer. Using philips screwdriver, remove (2) screws that hold rail to side wall of fridge. Replace with new slide . Slide glass shelf back in and then veggy drawer. 15 - 20 Minutes tops to fix. Tell wife if drawer doesent shut don't force it closed! (Overload it)
Cams on Hinge assembly broken, door didn't close properly
I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height. Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door. I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts. I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.
Refrigerator would begin to lose it's cool and we saw ice caking on the bacjk panel of the freezer section.
We had to empty the freezing section, remove the 4 screws that held the back panel and defrost the coils. Then with the diagram we got from the internet, we removed the defroster and easily installed the new one and put the back panel back on. We did find later that it was still icing over so I ordered the thermostat and we installed it today. It too was easy to install. We spliced the wires and hooked the new thermostat to the old wires and reinstalled the back panel. Hopefully this will solve the problem for us now.
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.
Coils in Freezer over frosted restricting air flow.Warm Frig.
1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer. 2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver. 3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws. 4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater. 5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater. 6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right. 7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side. 8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon. 9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut. 10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it. 11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils. 12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in. 13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks. Ice maker is also working correctly.