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broken kickplate grill
the whole process was without a doubt the easiest transaction I have ever experienced----the customer service rep was awesome.....very, very quick shipping---the package arrived in 2 days....the part snapped in place in less than a minute---- couldnt have been more pleased--
The isnatalla tion was very simple, two screws, and that was it. The only problem was ttying to determine if it was the right side or the left side rail
First I removed the top hinge of the refrigerator door and then lifted it off the bottom assembly. I had to turn the door on its side to work on the bottom where the broken part was located. I unscrewed the bottom assembly and replaced the broken part with the new door cam. Put it all back together and now the door closes but must be manually pushed to close. When the door was working properly it would shut automatically when released from any position. I think I need to install an additional part - maybe a shim? to make it close automatically. That will be another story. This was a fairly simple jog to do but since I did not have the proper tools it did take me longer than usual to remove the bolts. I'm happy I did it myself and saved a big repair bill! Thanks to the people at PartSelect.com.
The original part had a flaw in the attachement area allowing the rail to totally break away from the rear screw. I needed to get the new part and replace the old one.
First I removed the two screws that held the old slide to the refer side wall, (after unloading the shelf and taking out the Veg. draw). I then put the screws in the new slide spots and screwed them into the refer wall using a hand screwdriver (phillips) and put everything back in place. It was about as simple a repair of anything I have had in the past 75 years. I didn't even have to swear.
I had to order bucket as well. Then I removed 3 screws from bottom of bucket and removed auger parts as a unit put new drive cup in new bucket and re attached auger parts as assyembly and reinstalled in freezer.
frost/ice buildup in icemaker chute in the freezer door
The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.
The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.
Watched video on flapper assembly replacement looked real ready. Video failed to mention ice dispenser trim was glued in place . Had to buy real small paint scrapper that would fit in dispenser outlet to free inside edge of trim piece. Once I got it all loose job went very easy.
Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.
Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
Had a drip which filled up the tray and leaked on the floor from water dispenser
There are Great videos on YouTube!!! Turned off power,Removed trim ring, Pushed a philips head screwdriver in one of the holes underneath the electrical panel with the selector push buttons. This releases the electrical panel. There are Three wire sets with plugs. I removed the plugs and took the electrical panel out. Removed four Phillips head screws and pulled out the big paddle switch. This then exposes the flapper. Replaced flapper with new one and reassembled everything. When I had everything apart, I cleaned with window cleaner. It was pretty moldy from the water leaking. Turned power back on and tested everything to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Works great
Replaced dispenser door flapper by following the do it yourself video in this site. It was really easy. Just be careful when removing the dispenser black bezel. I broke one of the little tabs when taking it off.
