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Ice Crusher began to leave plastic in ice
We only needed the rear plastic cylindrical helix. After installing it, there was a squeal of metal on metal due to insufficient clearance between the rear moving blade and the Ice dispenser plate.
Refrigerator Ice Maker 7/16” (or ½” hole, stainless steel) washer just behind #334 Rear Moving dispenser Blade PS292310 to give clearance so it doesn’t hit #345 / PS292441 Ice Dispenser Plate.
This was my first time at doing this so it took longer than someone experienced. But, it worked!
Ice maker was leaking and causing the ice to freeze into a block.
People would use the ice maker and just let it grind and eventually the bin and the plastic cup at the end of the auger broke. I replaced the ice maker and once satisfied it worked and did not leak, I took the bucket/auger mechanism apart and replace both the bucket and the ice cup. While the Frig is getting old, it has paneling that matches our cabinets so we are trying to get a few more years out of this. This repair is one I should have done 10 years ago! Thanks Parts Select!
Original part cracked allowing crushing fingers to grab plastic guide jamming it.
Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Bin of cubes was frozen over and I thought I had burned out the auger motor
My friend easily installed the new motor but that wasn’t the problem it ended up being the control panel board on the fridge freezer door that is the problem. No one has that part #WR55X0058 That I need and I can’t find it on the internet they say because my fridge is almost 30 years old. I’ll keep searching. My fridge still works perfectly and makes cubes. They just won’t dispense. It’s my spare fridge and I’m not ready to get rid of it.
Evap fan failed, would need restarted by hand when weather warmed up
Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.
Un Plugged the frig. Unlocked the socket by pressing down on the latch. Pulled the socket out ensuring I had enough slack. Unplugged the old socket installed the new. Plugged the frig back in. Tested the switch . Very easy-to-use.
1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
