Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Burner would not turn off
It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order. it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.
Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.
Shut off electrical breaker to stove. Unscrew & remove heating element with standard screwdriver. Since screw threads were stripped I used a longer screw I wrapped thread with teflon tape. Connect new heating element & crimp connectors to ensure contact is made, push wires back & tighten screws. Turn power breaker back on & we have a new oven!
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
The 6in burner would go to max heat regardless of the setting.
Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!
Sparks shot out from under knob, then, no surprise, the burner didn't work
I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!
Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:
Turned off breakers. Grabbed a beer. Removed two screws holding in plate. Removed electrical connectors. Removed two screws holding switch. Put new switch in place with screws. Reattached connectors. Reseated plate & screws. Turned on power & tested. Finished beer and felt very manly.
The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.
back burn would turn high no mater where you set the control knob.
Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.
