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Light switch on door broke
Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.
Kick plate was missing from the bottom of the unit.
I simply went to PartSelect and ordered a new kick-plate from the illustrated parts catalog. A few days later it arrived via FedEx and was easily installed within about five minutes. The clips that hold the part to the front of the refrigerator, push on over plastic tabs on the back of the kick-plate. They were packaged separately and at first were very tight and uncooperative. I placed a small socket over the end of the tab and gently tapped each clip it into place with a small hammer. One word of caution, the metal clips are very sharp. It was only after I finished the installation did I notice that I had apparently cut my index finger during the process. Nothing serious, but probably avoidable had I been more aware of the sharp edges.
The fridge lower hinge mechanism which assists door closing broke
Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.
The hardest part was getting the unit out of the refrigerator because the split caused it to drop down when it filled with ice while we were on vacation. After the ice I had to give the bucket a firm jerk to remove it. Then it was just a matter of replacing the old bucket with the new one using a phillips screw driver.
Removed the broken grille kickplate. (Just pulls right off) Tried to put the new clips on the new grill kickplate. Didn't want to go on without alot of force. Didn't want to crack the new part. So...I heated up the metal clips and placed them (used pliers-too hot to handle) on the place that held the clips and they slid right on and believe me...they won't come off either. Put the grille kickplate on the bottom section of the refrigerator and snapped right on. Everything looks good.
Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY
Water line feeding ice maker was not producing ice
Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.
Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.
Refer lights not working, there are two lights and neither worked. Decided the switch was the problem.
The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?
We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.
