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Small burner on glass top stove stopped working.
First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.
Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.
Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.
Remove three screws underneath bottom front edge of the range top. Bewteen the oven door and the range top. Lift rnage top up in frotn and prop up. Remove two screws o the element and replace. Found out the problems was not the element but the control switch. The heating element for the bimetalic control was brokened and not making contact. Element was ok. Would advise inspecting and using a dvm to check resistance of the element before purchasiing. By the way I swapped the control switch from another element and found out that they are claibrated to the sixe of the element. You have to purchase the right control switch or the element will not heat correctly.
It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order. it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Removed unit from counter, removed 14 screws holding glass top to frame, removed ceramic element, swapped over mounting brackets to new element, checked wireing as per instruction sheet (direct replacement) connected wires, re-installed glass top to frame and placed back into counter. ops check good.
We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!