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The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained. Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet . Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them. Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine. Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver. Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub . Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench. Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place . Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) . Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut. Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart. Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear. Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws. Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Water would not stop running over filled the washer
Unplugged the washer turned off the water disconnected the water lines then took the cover off and disconnected the wires and took 2 screws out and took the old part out and put the new 1 in
Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair: >Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain. >Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom. Better than than just laying front of washer on floor. >Used a drop light to help see bottom. >Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut heads. >Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed back down. Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read. this part has been a problem with these washers. >Put Pulley Cover back on. >Reset washer upright. >Reconnected water and power. >Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse" light on and pushed "start" button. >Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin" light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle - "sensing" and in "wash". . Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
Found washer to not agitate, washer was making a noise like grinding plastic on metal type noise. Was not sure what was causing noise until finally realizing that agitator was not agitating during wash cycle. To verify concern I removed old agitator assembly and marked top of input shaft and turned
Removed cover from dasher assembly and removed 7/16 bolt, removed agitator assembly and reinstalled new dasher assembly and installed new 7/16 bolt with washer included. Installed cover and tested washer. Washer worked normal again
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!
Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself. My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.
Spin cycle was way out of wack, like it was over loaded to 1 side
1st watched the video, turned off the water supply, unplugged the elecrtcal cord, removed the rear top panel , screws with the nut driver , then slid the top forward about 1 inch & then lifted upwards to removed the lid assy, after taping the lid assy down so it wouldn't flip open. Then once lifted up, at the very back are 2 slots, which you can the set the top onto, then use the 2 s-hooks with a chain to support the lid assy from falling backwards and attach to the base assy. Then you can move the tub assy away from where you need to work.in this case was replacing the upper plastic suspension rod supports, then push upwards the socket , drop in the new one, pull of on the rod assy, and hook it into the ball and drop bach into the suppprt , was able to do all 4 in no time. Then unkook and reattach all, screws, plug back in, turn on the water. And we were good to go. All For less than $20.
