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Leaking water inlet valve
This would have been a less-than-5-minute repair except for one item. The water intake nossle was 180 degrees from the original part. As a result, the copper water inlet tube would not fit in the old space and still allow me to reattach the valve to the freezer chassie. I ended up leaving the valve hanging loose under the freezer. I spent most of my time trying to fit the valve into the old space.
Unplug freezer. Disconnect electrical connections (pull apart). Remove one screw holding the valve to the chassie. disconnect water inlet pipe and water outlet pipe from old valve.
Reconnect electrical connection to new valve. Reconnect in and out water hoses. Reconnect valve to chassie. Plug freezer back in. Finished
water was leaking down from freezer section to bottom part of unit
First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
While cleaning the refrigerator I had taken the bottom glass shelf out to clean it in my sink and unfortunately it broke into thousands of little pieces. After clean up the mess and my cut thumb, I went online to see about replacing it. First went to Whirlpool site, they had the broken shelf but for considerably more than I found on your site. Your website was easy to use and the part and the shipping was much more reasonable. I ordered on a Sat afternoon and the shelf, which was exactly the same as the one that had broken, was on my front porch by Tues @ 9:00 am. You never know when you make a purchase online with a company you are not familiar with, but I can say this was a great experience.
My refrigerator ran constantly and never got cold!
On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever and I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.
After discovering I could give the thermostat box a rap with my hand and get it to start the fridge I got online at your site and found others were doing the same, before replacing the thermostat. I ordered the part from you and received it the next day! I used a long neck nut driver to remove the one screw holding the thermo box in place and pliers to unplug the three wires on the thermo unit. After removing the control knob it slides right out. I unwound the temp sensor wire and tried to shape it like the old one before installing(making this sensor fit like the old one takes a little juggling). Then hooked the wires on the new unit that you sent and the fridge started working again flawlessly. Big savings!
Unplugged the machine removed the bottom plate and back plate and ice maker.Removed 2 wires to motor and ground wire.Removed 2 mounting nuts for motor,installed new motor and used old fan blade for new motor .Reinstalled in reverse order plugged in and tested fine.
Snap on bracket snapped off easily with minimum force. Removed the existing bent and broken sheet metal trim piece. Inserted new piece into one side of bracket, then the one in hand, then snapped into place.
At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.
Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Take bottom racks and baskets out of freezer. Remove back sheet metal panel, 8 screws. Remove motor and bracket, 2 screws. Umplug wires on motor. Remove two more screws to take mounting bracket off motor. Install in reverse order. Simple job. Maybe 20 minutes. Besure to shut freezer off before startin work.