RT218JCF0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Disconnected electrical. 2. Removed upper console in refrigerator by removing 2 nuts. 3. Disconnected wiring from console. 4. Removed 2 screws from defroster timer part and pulled off from connector. 5. Replaced with new defroster timer and put everything back together. Thank you Steve for the U-Tube step by step video.

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

I watched the video online where it described the troubleshooting tips for this type of symptom. So I knew exactly what the problem was which is the defrost timer. After the part came in I just unscrewed (4 screws) the box which houses the thermostat and the defrost timer from top ceiling of the refrigerator section. Then I just unscrewed and unhooked the old defrost timer and replaced it with the new one. After finishing the installation I turned the fridge on. At first nothing happened. So I turned the dial on the defrost timer with a flathead screw until it clicked and the fridge came alive. I waited for an hour or so. The cooling cycle completed and the fridge stopped as expected. When I opened the door I noticed the interior is much colder than before and right after closing the door the fridge hummed back into life again. So I know my fridge is working again. Thanks to PartSelect for providing the right part for my refrigerator. I will definitely buy from them again if anything goes wrong.

with patience

Based on other problems listed I determined I had a bad thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. Since my refrig is over 14 years old I decided to replace all three components since I don't have testing equipment. As a former aircraft mechanic in the Air Force who did a lot of removal and replacement of components I didn't have any problems. Your videos were very helpful and on point. My refrigerator is now working perfectly. My rational for replacing the three components was it was still cheaper than having a refrigeration person to come out and I received your parts the next day. By the way, the defrost timer is located outside in the bottom left front of the refrigerator while the videos suggested that it was inside under the control panel. Thanks!

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.

we removed the food from the freezer, disconnected the fridge , removed the cover, the evaporater fan was running, condeser fan was running, then we checked heater with multimeter and it was ok. next step we replaced the frostimer, and defrost thermostat . and then the refrigarater was working ok, problm was the frost thermastat damaged.

unplugged frig,removed bottom front cover and loosend 2 screws at bottom front left and slid defrost timer out from behind metal panel,unplugged the old and plugged in the new.frig works great.

First I removed the inner door which was easy and used a drill with a hex head driver to undo all of the screws behind the gasket. Trying to fit the new gasket on was a fidely nightmare. It's not too bad to get the sides on but the corners are very difficult. At first I had left the door on the fridge after an hours worth of swearing I took the door right off and laid it flat on a table. When I finally got the gasket all on, with a couple od small tears, I hit it with a heat gun and got most but not all of the wrinkels out. When I put the door back on the fridge it wouldn't close properly - gaps in the gasket. I leaned some weights against the door and it the gasket with the heat gun again. Gradually over 2 days it fit fairley well.

I watched the video you had on-line and it was simple. Thank you so much

Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.

I needed to determine if the heating coil was ok. I bypassed the thermostat, rotated the defrost timer manually with a flat screwdriver until it clicked. The coil heated up and turned a glowing red. So the coil was ok. After looking at the wiring diagram located on the back, the only parts in line was the timer and the thermostat. So I ordered both, replaced them, and everything is working fine. I went online about noon on Thursday, placed the order. The shipping indicated 2-3 business days. To my surprise, they were delivered to my home on Friday, mid morning. Great service from Part Select.

1st. replaced the defrost thermostat pn 5303918214 did not fix it next replaced the defrost timmer pn 215846602 that did not fix it,next replaced the defrost heater pn 5303918247 still did not fix it,has the same problem as when I started I don't know what to do next guess will call for a service tech to come out,or get a new refridgerator. Looks like I wasted my money on these parts. Refridgerators are not as easy to fix as yall make them out to be. I have to say all the parts were easy to install and your instructions and videos were great, they just did not fix my refrigerator Thanks Tom

Replaced the refrigerator thermostat. One hex-head screw in the rear and two tabs on the front hold the thermostat cover on. The temperature knob pulls off by friction, exposing two phillips-head screws that hold the thermostat in place. Two power wires and one ground wire are held on by clips. The replacement thermostat is a different shape than the original, but it is a direct fit. This replacement eliminated the problem. The only thing that made the job difficult was not having any instructions nor any wiring diagrams for the refrigerator.

I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!