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Broiler Element quit working
First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.
Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.
Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.
Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,
Broiler element finally burnt out after many years of cooking.
(1) Turned off power source. (2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up. (3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections. (4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation. (5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.
I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.
shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.
Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.
1. Make sure electricity is off! 2. Remove 2 screws at rear of oven where the bake element is attached. 3. Pull out far enough to remove the 2 screws where the wires attach. 4. Lift out the old element and set the new one in. 5. Reattach the wires. 6. Reattach the element to the rear of the stove. 7. Turn electricity back on.
First I pulled the heating elements from sockets Removed 1/4 " screw from socket brackets. Removed two wires from socket , reversed procedure, tested , work fine ,wife happy, me happy. Parts were delivered in 3 days.
Still need an other nut to keep broiler support inplcae. Support bar did not come with new screws so I must locate one new one.
I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.
Simple repair that was complicated by not being able to remove the oven door, leaving a long reach to the element connections in the back of the oven. Other than the accessibility issue, the repair is easy. Remove two scews, pull the element out about 3 inches to access and unscrew the screws holding the wires to the element. Then reverse the process with the new element. But, because of the long reach, there were alot of dropped screws and cussing.
Partselect made this job a breeze. Due to the user friendly process to order and receive the part. I repaired the stove after turning off the breaker in the main box. There were two screws that held the baking unit in place, removed them and then replaced with new unit.
Easiest thing I've done. Shut off breaker. Unplug range. Pull out from wall (because this is a good time to remove the back, clean under and around the unit, check out the insulation and electrical contacts....or skip it, whatever). Open oven. Remove door (while ajar, pull up). Remove racks. Unscrew mounting plate from back interior wall. Set screws aside. Gently pull element forward until the leads and wires come through the insulation. Remove any strands of insulation that stuck to the leads and connectors. Unscrew leads. Keep left wire to the left and right wire to the right. DO NOT CROSS. Set screws aside. Discard old element. (This is a good time to clean your oven, if you haven't in a while.) If you cleaned oven, wait until dry. Position new element, feet down, in bottom of oven. Position left wire on left connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND LEAD. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Position right wire on right connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Do not leave screws loose. Connection must be tight. Fire hazard, otherwise. If you bent nothing, then gently push element back through insulation until mounting plate is flush. Screw into position. Replace racks. Replace door. If you decide to check insulation and other leads, now is the time. I checked mine and it's a good thing I did.... Unscrew back plate of oven, keeping screws in order. Remove plate. Check that your new element and insulation aren't bunched up or otherwise in a hazardous state. You may notice burned or greasy insulation. You may see burned leads on light receptacle and broil element. If you do, then replace them, too. When finished with everything, replace back plate. Put range back into position, ensuring level and plumb. Plug in. Turn on breaker. Pat yourself on the back. You just saved $100-$250, depending on where you live.
Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.
Two of the knobs fit perfectly.
The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.
