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Followed instructions on Kenmore site. One point of note. Hold onto the element wires firmly. They will retract behind the oven!!! After contacting an electrician friend who removed unit from the wall and rethreaded the wires, it went just fine.
no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
At first I tried to remove the element from the top of the oven. I took out the screws with a nut-driver (1/4"). Them I tried to pull the element out slowly so I could unplug it from the power wires. One of the wires pulled off bfore I could get it out. I then pulled the range out from the wall and removed the back from it. THEN I noticed that if you pull the stove away from the wall first and take off the back the wires are right there and easy to take on and off. Then replace the the back panel, plug in the stove and test the element. It will give off a slight odor as the manufacturing coating is burned off.
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
Live in an apartment and they had generic drip pans on the stove causing pots to tilt when cooking.
Replaced drip pans that the apartment Superintendent had in place with the correct drip pans and now cooking is beautiful again! No more uneven cooking on the stove top.
The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
Removed burner from each one. removed drip bowl. Inserted new bowl. Replaced burner. Excellent help from order people so I got the correct bowl was irreplacable.
it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank
Removed the burner elements, removed and disposed of old drip pans, cleaned the area, relaced with new drip pans and replaced the burner elements. Verified all burners were level - good as the day it was new!