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Sparks flying out of the oven, broiler element melting
First Things first, unplug unit, remove rear cover with Phillips head screwdriver, disconnect, wires from broiler element which is the top, one, open oven, unscrew top screws first, then two at the back, wiggle out element, then reverse Steps , test repair before putting cover back on. Then ta-da, you saved yourself a $300. Service call to the appliance repair guy.
Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place
1. Unplug the power 2. Unscrew the two screws that hold the element 3. Pull the element out a little to expose the wires. 4. Gently pull off each wire (best done with needle nose) MAKE SURE THE WIRES DONT FALL INTO THE BACK OF THE OVEN. 5. Firmly seat wires back onto new element and replace screws 6. Bake stuff!
Unplug stove. Remove the two screws attaching the element to the rear of the oven. Carefully pull out. Disconnect wires. Reconnect wires. Screw back in. Done. The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall.
Open door 1/4 an slide the little latches on each hinge toward you. This will lock them in place. Close the door a little and lift it up. The door will slide out. Lay it face down on a table and undo all the screws. Do not remove the glass, frame etc. Slide old hinge out and new one in being careful not to slide the glass and frame out of alignment. It is a pain to get it all back together if you take every part out. Just do the hinges. Screw it back together. Reverse the door removal process by lowering the hinges into the oven receiver from a 75% closed position. Once in place, open the oven about halfway and slide the locks forward. This will allow the door to close completely. Note: Three hinges came with my set. Not sure what the third odd one is for.
chemical etching of black painted finish on drawer front panel
took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
removed two screws to faceplate at rear of oven. Disconntected contact wires, installed bake element reconnected contact wires, attached faceplate turned on oven holy hell it works just saved some money on service call thanks!!!
Tool out 4 screws, unpluged the connectors, unscrewed two screws holding the module. Replugged the connectors, replaced screws. Done (don't forget to turn the power off)
Stove top worked. When the oven turned on the timer would come on for the pre-heat but the oven never warmed up.
After I confirmed that the hearing elements weren't bad I started following wires and ended up at the control panel. After confirming with a multi meter that the elements weren't getting power I decided that the control panel was the problem. There are two screws that hold the panel in place. The connectors should plug right back into the new panel but mine didn't. After a slight modification i got it to work. The clips were different on the new panel so I just pulled the wires out I the connectors and plugged them into the appropriate slots on the panel. Oh, and the part arrived the next day and it was 3 days before Christmas. This is the second purchase I have made from them and I will continue to give them my business. A+!
