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RB740BH1CT Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RB740BH1CT
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Terminal block connectors worn out wasn’t making a good connection with the stove top burner
Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Lance from HAHIRA, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken Glass On Oven Door
I removed the broken glass and scraped the edges to remove any excess. Then I slipped in the new glass and used the hammer to bend back the edge that holds the glass in place. Your company and website made it very easy for me to find and order the part I needed to repair my oven. Also, I saved about $30 compared to the quote I received from my local appliance store.
Parts Used:
Outer Oven Door Glass - Black
  • LYNNE from NORTH SAINT PAUL, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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lens snapped off on the inside-plug was left loose
popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.
Parts Used:
Lens
  • RICKEY from MONTROSE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Burner spontaneously cycled without knob activation
First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • Anil from Milpitas, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old Burner Chrome Ruined
Replaced
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • RALPH from TROY, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Cleaning oven latch engaged while pizza was cooking
In a panicked state, my roommates and I could not turn the cleaning setting off. So, we "Jerry-rigged" the door open to save the house from the awful burning pizza smell and potential fire. We removed the stove top with the nutdriver only held in with three nuts. Removed the insulation promptly after. Disassembled the latch mechanism with the star wrench set. The scariest part of the replacement was looking confused at the new part. To our dismay, the part looked grossly under sized. we thought it would not fit. After placing the part in place of the broken latch we found the replacement fit better than the previous and was a totally painless success. Do-it-yourself, not that complex and an excellent way to save money.

_Jeffrey B.
Parts Used:
LATCH ASSEMBLY
  • Jeffery from Victor, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burner socket disintegrated...2nd time.
Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.

This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.

Thanks for having the part available.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Streeter from Millersville, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Burner would not stay in socket
I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Jack from Georgetown, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Fix prior jimmy-rigged repair job
Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Jason from Charleston, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Could not adjust heat on burner.
Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Roy from Au Gres, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • Melvin from Portland, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Needed New Burner Bowls
Removed the old burner bowls, replacing them with the new ones.
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Carolyn from Garden City, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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My electronic control board went out so I could not use my oven. My oven light blew as well.
I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.
Parts Used:
CONTROL OVEN TO9 Light Bulb - 40W
  • Stella from PADUCAH, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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All Instructions for the RB740BH1CT
121 - 135 of 331