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The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range. My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
Shorted out the burner... fat gets into the receptors on these old stoves.
The only hard part about putting in a new terminal block (and this time I had to replace the burner too, because that fried too) is stripping the stove wires, because that thermal insulation is very hard to get off. Otherwise, it's simple. In this case, I had already replaced this one (sigh), so had already cut & stripped the wires, so it was all easy. Frankly, the sane thing to do is buy a new stove, but wife is too cheap.
When moving the range, the 220 wire popped off the terminal and arced melting the plastic terminal
I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.
Broken right END of oven door HANDLE (3 separate pieces assembled)
(Followed the ORIGINAL manufacturer's instructions for assembly we retained when purchasing the appliance.) Replacing the broken handle end involved removal of the LEFT handle end as well as the broken RIGHT end, the center rod handle, and unscrewing the outer door face from the inner door face. Had to find specialty screwdriver for non-standard screw heads. Sigh. It was impossible to replace the door handle, as it requires removing the entire door - It is too heavy for one person to hold in place while the 2nd person tried to blindly replace screws thru a 1/2 inch slit in the outer and inner door pieces. Hiring a handyman is impossible leading up to the holidays, so we decided to just buy a new stove. Something that should be really simple to replace for less than $50 is now a major budget outlay due to a crappy design.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Surface burner terminal blocks were corroded... intermittent connection
I am the worst handy man, but I have to say, this was so easy. Web site was well designed to find the exact part I needed. The coils pull out of the blocks with moderate pressure. Stove top lifts up like a car hood and rests on little arms. The blocks unscrew from retaining holes with a few turns of a nut driver. Take the back of the stove off, a matter of 8 screws and two minutes. Poke the new wires through following the old wires, pull the spade terminals loose by hand or needle-nose pliers and replace with new. Polarity indeed does not matter. Incredibly fast. Took me a quarter hour. (We will not speak of the extra hour of cleaning areas no scrub brush had ever seen).
While I appreciate all the various parts available from PartSelect, I was disappointed that the only heater element that was approximately the right size and shape for my wall oven had push-on prongs. My original was screw-on.
Thus, I had to (very) carefully drill through the somewhat thick metal tabs to get screws into them. This meant holding the tabs with a pliers while I drilled them out to make sure that I did not break off the tab. Then, I increased the hole size by using increasing diameter drill bits. I let the screws self-tap, but again this was done carefully to avoid breaking off the tabs. Finally, I found that the part of the new heater element going through the back wall of the oven was an inch or so longer than the original. This did not seem to cause a problem of overheating outside the oven. At least not so far!
no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
The longest part of the job was finding my misplaced nut driver!!Note:A small socket set will do.Unplug stove from outlet,remove rear cover panel,lift stove top up to access terminal. remove the one screw that holds the terminal and slide off the two wire clips that hold the wires up out of the way.next clip off the old terminal leaving the old wires so you can tape the new wires on just to pull them through the hole.Once you have the new wires pulled up to the heat control unplug old and replace with the new,tighten the screw on the new terminal and don't forget to slide on the wire clips
Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.
I had to remove the door, burners, stove cooktop, both oven heating elements. Two j bolts in the rear of range hold oven box to range body and sandwich the seal in place. After removing the oven box the new seal could be installed, then reassemble everything.
I am not going into a description. It is a very minor thing to do. I did appreciate the quick delivery of the parts and will purchase future appliance parts from you again.
My son turned on the burner to make something and then there was a pop and stove would not work.
First I removed the burners and pulled the stove out to get the back cover off. Removed the back cover after main power was shut off. Removed old burner terminal blocks and replaced with new ones. Replaced back cover and pushed stove back into place. Turned on main power to stove checked burners and they worked. DO NOT REPLACE OR DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON ANY MAJOR APPLIANCE WITH OUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE MAIN POWER SOURCE.
