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First I turned off the circuit breaker...just to be safe. I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I was surprised you didn't went new screws, but that was OK. I pulled out the old one, and pulled out the two wires. It was tricky, for me, to pull apart the old wires. Luckily, a friend was braver than I, and just pulled them apart using a little muscle, and easily connected the new wires. I screwed it back in, and it was done! I was really impressed with how quickly it arrived at my door, too.
1. remove 2 screws holding element in place 2. unscrew the wires from the old element 3. the connectors on the new element was different from the old one 4. cut old connectors from wires 5. prepare wires for new connectors 6. install new connectors 7. connect the new element to the wires 8. replace the 2 screws removed in step 1 9. test the repair 10 it worked great.
First, I removed the 2 screws holding the element in place. Next, I pulled the element out abotu 4 inches and disconnected the wires attached to the element. I was able to do one by hand, but the other required needle nosed pliers. (be careful not to pinch the connecting wire). Then I attached the wires to the new element. Lastly, I replaced the 2 screws to hold the new element in place.
SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.
The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.
To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).
The original unit burned through and would not work, of course .
After unpacking and checking the unit that was mailed to me, I cleaned the ends of both the connections in the oven and the connections on the part, then plugged them together and screwed the plates in place in the oven. The oven worked immediately and still is working very efficiently. I had no problems at all with the installation.
Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.
Inspect new part; collect tools; TURN OFF BREAKER; remove two screws holding defective element (KEEP!); install new element using saved screws; turn power back on; test; celebrate!
The function setting knob spun freely without changing the setting.
The old knob pulled off easily. Its stem had broken. Examine the new control knob. Its stem has a protrusion on it which fits into the grove on the shaft of the oven's function-control switch. (It would be the same for the temperature-control switch, also.) The new knob slips on easily when properly aligned. You may want to use some gunk from a breakfast cereal box (the clear gummy gunk that is used to hold two cereal boxes together, when sold as a pair) to help the new knob stay on. Using whiteout or paint, mark the end of the ridge on the knob that points to the switch position, so that you can easily tell which way it's pointing.
Took two screws out of burned out unit. Pulled element forward and pulled off connectors. Replaced new element on connectors and screwed back in. Extremely simple. Less than 10 minutes.