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Blower wheel cracked in half
Turn circuit breaker off, unplug for added safety. Use a medium flat head screwdriver and lift the top up. Use a nut driver to remove two screws holding the front panel to the frame. Remove the front panel and begin to dismantle the blower wheel. Remove the outer clamp from hte motor shaft, then the U-clip (inexpensive plier that has to pins to open the U-clip.... tricky little bugger). Pull the blower wheel off and replace with the new wheel. Reverse the proedure and your ready to go.
Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix. Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.
Lifted top from dryer and fuses were in the back of drum just below heating coil. Used nut driver to remove heating coil to gain access to fuses and replaced them. Process was quick and easy. Diagram from this site made locating fuses elementary!
P.S. I have no certified experience in appliance repair.This was my first time ever and dryer works perfect.
I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
Disconnect the power and gas supply so that you can slide dryer out and into an accessable area to work comfortablely. Removed top and front of dryer. When disconnecting numerous wires from the top controls, draw a simple color coded diagram for reconnection before you disconnect those wires. After removing the top and front, take out the drum and clean all the lint, money etc. out of the normally nonexcessable area of dryer. Place new belt on as you replace the drum. This takes two people; one to hold the drum in position and one to carefully work the new belt into place. Rotating the drum by hand will assist in the placement of the new belt on the drum. After reassembling the newly cleaned dryer it was a pleasure to try it and find a dryer that worked better than during its pre-repair use and it saved us the price of a repair call or a new dryer.
Un pluged and Moved it out from the Wall, Raised the top, found broken belt. ordered belt on line, 2 days belt came in. cleaned all dust and dirt out put greese on berrings for rollers bleu out vent hose with Leef Blower. put top down, pushed back. pluged in and turned on IT WORKS!!!
I googled 'replace dryer belt' and found instructions on the 'Virtual Repair Man' web site. After reading the instructions through twice I began.
First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.
I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks
After searching you site for other similar problems, we ordered the part that we thought we needed, it arrived within 3 days, my husband installed the part and the dryer started. The information you have on your site was great, it gives you an idea about what to test before having to call a repairman. There were several people that had the same problem and with their description it was easy to test the fuse. Thanks it saved us alot of money and time. I can't describe how the repair was done, my husband did it, but it was very easy
well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...
The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!
After removing the control panel face plate, the lid, the front panel, and the drum, I had to trouble shoot the wiring to determine the dead spot. I found it to be the thermal fuse for the heating element. I then unplugged the wires to the fuse, removed the fuse from the fuse bracket, and then replaced evrything in reverse order.
Before ordering the part, I found this website by linking from a video on YouTube where several people showed how they did it. Simply two screws in the lint removel chute and pushed in the two clips holding the top and two inside screws holding the front panel. Held the machine tilted back onto a table and placed two 4" wooden cubes underneath it so it wouldn't come forward and one more 4" cube under the drum. After cleaning out the inside, I slipped the new belt around the drum (ribbed side down) and taped it in place with a couple of pieces of painter's tape temporarily. Hooked the idler wheel guide and looped the belt in it. Tested movement by spinning it by hand to check alignment and removed tape. Reassembled the front, side and top panels accordingly and tested it. Voila! This was my first attempt and I saved myself some bucks. The last repair was done by Se•rs and their service person took my credit card number for the invoice and promptly went out and charged over $3,000 on it. He was eventually caught. Great incentive to do yourself, huh?
Unplugged Power Cord, Removed Duct. Pupped Top Lid Loose to Reveal Door Panel Screws. Removed Door Panel to Discover Blower Wheel had Disintergrated @ the Shaft.. Located Part from On-Line (as have in past) and Placed Order, On-Line ( Of Course ). Received Part, via: Fed-Ex in Two Days.. Whoo Hoo. Whole Family Welcomed the Repair. ThanX . Satisfied Consumer :)
![](https://partselectcom-gtcdcddbene3cpes.z01.azurefd.net/346995-1-S-Whirlpool-341241-Multi-Rib-Belt-92-1-4-amp-quot.jpg "Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241")
