Found your site online, ordered parts needed. When parts arrived I just put them into the holes in the microwave and popped on the self. Worked like a charm! Thanks very much!
Operable Top Room Vent and Housing on 2009 GE Microwave
The original piece which contains the operable interior vent flap and the housing which holds that vent randomly fell off the front of the microwave one evening. Apparently, all of the tabs where the connecting clips and screws had finally perished and broke off. I found the exact replacement part at PartSelect. Since the old piece was already missing all I needed to do was finish removing the two screws which are at the top of the unit still holding in the original top clips. The bottom plastic snap in parts had sheared off and either fell out or I was able to pull them out with pliers. That cleared the way to install the new piece after some basic cleaning of some years of grease. I ended up taking the vent flap off (two springs and a couple of screws) so that I could see better to maneuver the housing into place. I pushed the bottom tabs in which go is straight with a slight shift to the right to engage the tabs into the metal housing of the microwave. I then put back the top screws and reconnected the front flap, again a couple screws and two springs. I did need to adjust the hinge pins by slightly bending the metal tabs just to tighten up the grip on the flap. After that it worked perfectly. It took about an hour to do as I was overly cautious.
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open." With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open. Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower. There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon. Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
I took the part out of the box and handed it to my wife and said "here ya go hun, go put this under the glass turntable in the microwave. You'll know it's installed when you hear it click down" She yelled back, "easy as pie" - - - Humm.. I can't make a pie. Fortunately the old one was in one piece as the side just split so it slid off very easy. The new one just snapped in place.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward
unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.
This repair was easy and could be done by anyone. If you undertake to do this replacement, remember to slowly bend the medal tabs back that hold the lens. Handled roughly these tabs could break off.
This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!
