PTC22MFMARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explanation. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call.

two screws and a connector were removed to replace the timer.
Timer was located on the top front of fridge

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

We actually followed the instructions of the video for the installation of the dual inlet valve and it was incredibly easy to perform. The fridge works perfect again!

Of course being a women to say I repair my refrigirator is very self gratifying specially when share with other womens like me divorce,having to do on their own, great site, very simple explain on the video with words I could understand, no surprices right to the penny. I save a lot of money, thank you so much, i recomend the site to anybody.

Shut water behind the refrigerator, unplugged the unit. Unscrewed the back tin panel and simply unscrewed the brace scew for the Double Outlet Water Valve. Disconnected the hoss - inspected the hosed for wear. Next detached the hoses and power source to the unit... reconnected both hoses & power source, plug the refrigator back in and inspected for any water leaks. Simple!

First I shut off the water supply and disconnected the power to the refrigerator. Remove the two finger tabs that are used to for the light swirch and ice/water by pulling straight down. Remove the cover to the dispenser assembly by pulling it out by hand. I removed the four small phillips head screw in each corner of the assembly. Pull the assembly out just enough to expose the circuit board connectors. Note the color of the wires and their position and location. The connectors are different sizes and should not be confused. Remove the two connector by pull them out straight. You can remove the entie assembly , but pay attention to the the water actuator when the assembly is removed entirely to prevent damage. Place the the dispenser assemby on a solid surface and remove the two screws holding the circuit board in place. Pay attention to the position of the black circuit board retainer be fore removing it. The circuitboard should be removed by pryiing gently on each side until it is released. Reverse the procedure for installation of the circuit board..

First I shut off the water to the refrigerator and unpluged the electrical cord. Then I unsnapped the cover to the control board assembly located above the ice/water selector knob. Then removed four screws holding the control board assembly. Then I tilted the assembly out far enough to unplug the two sets of wires connected to the control board. Then I removed the two screws holding the control board to the plastic assembly. You are then able to lift the control board out of the assembly. Be careful tilting out the assembly. I pulled too hard and removed the whole thing from the refrigerator which disconnected the ice/water actuator lever and I had some problems getting it re-installed correctly. Installation is basically the reverse of removal. I suggest testing it before snapping back on the final cover plate. I wouldn't recommend trying this repair unless you've done some kind of basic automotive or appliance repair... you can always try it and call a repairman if you get stuck. Good luck!

Remove the ice maker, motor and replace.

The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.

The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.

Nothing to tell it was just a replacement part that the old part was removed and the new one inserted. Works like a dream Thanks

The original design is poor. The evaporator fan is mounted in an upright position just below the ice-maker. A plastic grate mounts over the fan assembly to allow for air circulation. Unfortunately, random chips of ice from the ice maker can fall into the fan, causing the fan to shear its blades. Replacement of the fan blade is relatively simple (accept for having to completely unload the freezer and remove all back covers, the ice-maker auger motor assembly, and the metal evaporator cover). In order to mimimze this from reoccuring, I installed a 1/4'' mesh metal screen over the exhaust ports on the cover. Thus far, this has worked well to keep ice chips out of the evaporator fan.

First I remove the 4 screw that connect the control board to the icemaker and then removed two more screws hold the control board in place and unpluged the control board and put the new one in and plugged it back up and put all the screws back and it was done I had no more problems

removed panel from front. removed old circuit. Replaced with new. It worked as hoped. Replacement doesn't get any better than that.

just had to unscrew old one put the new one in