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I called Sears Repair to do the work. Glad I did because there's a lot more than just unscrewing screws...had to use the Dremel because the manufacture stripped one of the screws in assembly that was attached to the ignition part that connects to the burner...
Self Clean would not start, Broiler would not turn on,
Pull stove forward to access back. Remove center metal panel, 6 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Disconnect igniter connector. Measure resistance, it should be less than 1 ohm. Obtain new igniter. Test new igniter, 0.30 ohms. Remove oven door, see care and cleaning section of owner's manual. Remove burner cover, 2 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Remove two screws holding igniter. Aside: This is the second igniter to be replaced in this stove. The last one was exactly two years ago. Both times a screw snapped. With a small 5" vise grip the leading edge of the screw could be walked out. This time the two screws were replaced with 6-32 x 3/8" hex socket cap screws, split lock washer s under the screw head, and hex nuts holding the igniter in place. Note: All hardware was stainless steel. The burner cover was replaced. Oven door remounted. Igniter connected. Broiler turned on, it ignited. Center metal panel replaced. Stove moved into its nook.
Grate Foot Have 8 For My Stove And One Breaks Every Now And Then
This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
I had read the customers reviews and expected that I'd most likely break the attaching screws. My trick was to not just unscrew then all the way out but to turn it a half a turn and then screw it back in. Then out again a little more then last time and back a little. Didn't break a thing. I did have to move the stove out to get to the plug but that was just enough for me to get my arms in there.
Broiler and Burners would light, oven would not light and you could smell gas, also before the oven stopped working the oven was taking awhile before it would light
1.Removed the oven door. 2. Removed the oven floor panel ( slides right out ). 3. Removed cover plate and and removed one screw holding the igniter in place. 4 was able to pull the wire into the oven and unplug the igniter. Ordered a oven temp sensor but never needed it.