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Elements burned wouldn't heat
First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out
First, turn off the breaker to the range. Then just remove the 2 screws that hold the element at the back of the oven. Pull the wire connectors apart or push them off with a regular screwdriver. Instructions that I read said to make sure the wires don't fall back through the holes, but in our case the insulation held them in place. Reconnect the wire connectors to the new element and reattach with the screws. Easy!
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.
40+ year old oven. . . worn out, obsolete door hinges. . .
Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.) 2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger. 3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove. 4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove. 5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires. 6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner. 7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner. 8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above. 9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions. 10) Reverse removal steps.
Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.
removed 4 screws lifted off the face with switches replaced the bad switch and put the face plate back on. if you have any concerns just watch the video , part select has posted its great
Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil. Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
