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1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
pulled the end caps, pulled the upper dish rack out. Installed the rear end cap on the right hand side of the inside slider for the rack. installed the bearing and slider in position. Put the upper rack back in and installed the front end caps.
The Lower Rack was a simple swap. The Upper Rack had a tube and rotating sprayer that had to be removed and installed on the new rack. I used a nutdriver to remove a few screws and reinstall them on the new unit. Very simple.
Access to the parts was easy. Simply remove the outer door cover.
The only problem was that I had to disassemble and reassemble the dishwasher two times. Other than that, the actual repair was very simple; remove the old, replace with new and test with the built in diagnostic.
After finding the leak source I have targeted the piece part on your web. It came 2 days after and I replaced the defective part by the new one. I switch off the water, untied the nut to release the pipe, take out the part.
This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.
The plastic wheels kept falling off the bottom rack of the dishwasher
The old wheels and attachment brackets were easily removed since they were always falling off. I ordered all new brackets and wheels, but it turns out I didn't need new wheels. If your original wheels are in good condition, they are the same size as the new ones and fit the new brackets. The new attachment brackets are built differently than the ones that came with the dishwasher, but (a good thing considering the originals only lasted 1 1/2 years). The new brackets and wheels snapped together and snapped into place on the dishwasher in minutes--no tools were needed. It took longer to cut the parts out of the packaging than to install them. The bottom rack now rolls out like it did when it was brand new. Definitely worth the few dollars in parts.
Simply remove broken wheels and clip on replacements. No tools are necessary for this fix and the replacement was inexpensive and easy to install. The kit worked beautifully.
Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Leaking Solenoid valve
1.Shut off the electric! 2.Shut off the water Supply. 3.Removed the two lower front panels(Two bolts each) . 4.The Water supply Solenoid is located far left up front . 5. Unplug power connector clip to the solenoid. 6.remove the two mounting bolts . 7. Use pliers to compress the rubber hose clamp And slide down the hose . 8 some small amount of water maybe in the hose a pan maybe necessary under the solenoid. 9.Gently pull the rubber hose off the nozzle. Complete installation in reverse. May The Force Be With You!