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Latch to pop up door to soap dispenser broken.
I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!
Removed the dishwaher from under the counter. Removed the adapter pipe by removing two nut drive jubilee clamps. inserted the new adapter pipe in the alignment grooves, Tightened the jubilee clamps. Tested the unit on rinse cycle. Reinstaled dishwasher under the counter. Easy.
This is one of those things that after you do it, you wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Installation was a snap - literally. All I did was remove the wheels from the bottom dishwasher drawer (they didn't stay on anyway...and one had fallen off mid-wash and melted). I was able to re-use the wheels and simply snap in the new axels - which have a far superior design. I ordered a couple extra wheels to replace the one that melted and to have on hand...just in case. Delivery was incredibly fast - I received the parts the day after I placed the order. Why didn't I do it sooner?!
This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!
(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)
Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.
I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.
Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.
Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.
You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.
Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.
White latch on soap dispenser broken- would not latch
The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.
clunking sound every second when lower spray rotating
get fingers between lower spray arm and drive flange - rotate arm counter-clock wise and lift off...the arm was warped and hitting inside of lower door liner.
Open dishwasher and remove the bottom spray wheel, filter, and unscrew the mounting bracket to release the pump connector below the bottom of the unit. Remove mounting screws at top front of dishwasher and carefully slide the unit out; you may have to pry side panels inward with a flat screwdriver in order to get the dishwasher past any cabinetry. Be careful not to pull the dishwasher too far out as the water supply and drain hoses could be damaged. Unplug the unit. Turn unit sideways and tip over onto its' back. At this point, the sump will have to be removed using a nut-driver and/or socket set. This will open access to remove the old pump connector. Replace the old connector with the new connector, and reassemble the sump, connecting and firmly tightening all connectors. Tip unit upright. Screw mounting bracket back into the bottom of the dishwasher and put the remaining parts back. Before pushing the unit back into it's nook, I advise running a quick cycle just to make sure there is no leakage. If there is no leakage, put the unit back, tighten the mounting screws and you're done.
Bottom dish rack would not roll in and out because several wheels were off because of broken axles. It had to be lifted to get in and out which resulted in many chipped and broken dishes.
I removed the bottom rack from dishwasher. Took off the wheels with the broken axles. Put the new axles on the new wheels and slipped them on the rack. They fit perfectly and rack now glides in and out smoothly. Easy as pie, and took less than 10 minutes. Parts arrived in just two days. Thanks for the great service.
The lower dishrack connectors on the original roller axle parts had loosened so the rollers kept falling off
1. assemble each of the new rollers and axles by inserting the axle through the roller from the back side; push until the two parts snap together; 2. remove the cutlery basket, take the lower dishrack out of the dishwasher and turn it upside down; 3. remove the old rollers from the dishrack and send them for recycling; 4. push each roller on the corresponding wire shaft of the dishrack, with the axle connector arm against the vertical part of the shaft, pushing the roller assembly against the shaft until it snaps together. NOTE: the new rollers are wider than the originals and fit snugly on the tracks; no wobbling; the connector snaps are an improved design that should last as long as the dishwasher.
No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. The center of the gasket is marked to agree the the tub center.l. The seal just pulls out so I removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the Top center and working down to. the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. It took longer to clean the channel and door than to install the gasket.