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spring on one side of door broke, door became heavy and wouldn't stay up
Unscrewed dishwasher from counter and pulled it out from under the counter a few inches. Looked at the side of the dishwasher with the remaining good spring and saw how it was attached: One end was hooked to a little tether strung around a pulley, the other to one of a few steel slots. Copied that side for the new spring and works fine now.
from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.
The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.
The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.
Dishwasher was leaking do to heating element decay.
1.Disconnected the electricty 2. pulled the dishwasher from under the cabinet 3. tilted the washer on it's face (water supply was long enough and did not need to disconnected.)4. unscrerwed the 2 plastic nuts that hold the heating eliment in place. 5. tilted the dishwasher back upright and removed the old heating element. 6.put the new part in place had a helper tilt the washer forward while i tightened up the two plastic nuts to hold the part in place.7 reattached the elecrtic conectors to the heating element. 8. pushed the dishwasher back in place. 9 hook the electricity back up. During step 4 i had to remove the electric connectors from the old heating element.
First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle. All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends. Thanks, Harold L.
By reading online about some similar problems, I discovered that the accumulator did, in fact, have some holes worn through the screen and was leaking sediment back into the rinse water. After waiting for 2-3 months because the apart was on back-order at the factory, it took me less that 1 hour to remember how the unit went together (reviewed the parts diagram online) and connect everything up. On the first rinse, the dishes were really clean - well worth the wait. Doing dished by hand reminded me of the old days....
First I removed the torx screws halding the inner door panel on. I then seperated the door panel from the door and removed the latch assembly and disconnected the switches from the latch. After installing the switches on the new latch I replaced it between door and inner panel. Finally I replaced the torx screws and was finished.
Easy to repair and saved us replacing a dishwasher that was pretty new as it was. The dishes weren't getting clean, checked it out and found out the chopper was broken. Works great now with clean dishes.
I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.
My married daughter actually did the repair. I removed the plastic assemblies that held the upper cage and upper spray assembly. She unscrewed the screws that held the filter/impeller assembly in place and replaced the old one with the new one. I finished the job by cleaning the interior of the washer and putting everything back together. The dishes are sparkling clean again!
I removed the washer from under cabinet.Turn unit on its side,removed hose connection,removed mounting screws,disconnect wire plug and removed drain pump. I put a small amount of sealant on pump where it contacts the tub and reversed the process. Parts received in record time and in great shape.
I removed screws in trim, kick panel and counter top. Turned off breaker at electric box, Dishwasher slid out easily. diconnected water line; so i could slide entire unit out of cabinet. Laid unit on side and cleaned up the water that leaked out. Removed the pump with nutdriver, replaced pump and reconnected electric, drain hose and screws. Replaced unit into cabinet, connected water and turned on electric. no leaks, ran machine in rinse cycle, at time for pump I could hear and feel it was running, but no water. Evidently my original problem was the "air gap" device. I repaced it $4 at Home Depot and it works like a champ. In hind site, the air gap probably ruined the old pump, so you might want to consider changing it out whenever you change the pump.
I am a mom and I did it all my myself. It was really easy and I'll admit, fun. All I did was take the inside panel off and replaced the front panel that I ordered. And now it works great!
