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replace solenoid on ice door
remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.
There are three holes under the front panel in which you push a very small screwdriver in and the front panel comes off.In back of the panel is another panel with 4 screws .1 at each corner.Remove the 4 screws and that will come off exposing the working parts that need to be replaced.This is also a good time to clean anything you can get to in that area.It is very important to remember how everything came out.
As most people have stated the most difficult part of this job is disassembling the ice machine unit. I used multiple screw drivers and slowly pried the unit apart. After that was done is was as simple as placing the cup along the turning screw, and reassembling. I waited 24 hours and tested it. It worked perfectly.
The freezer keep freezing up, and food in fridge was freezing in the bottom.
Called the repair guy, he came and said the heater was ok and changed the thermastat.Well that didnt work and the heater looked real bad.So i got one and changed it. Well that worked for two weeks, next i got the motherboard. I looked into it and they have alot of problems with them.And My water and ice machine quitto, so i got one an put t in. So far its not freezing, its been two weeks. But my water and ice machine still wont lite up or work.I was told not to buy Ge buy a service guy before we got it. But the wife went with her cousin and when they got back that is what she got.
remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad 3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
Broken light switch, caused by a dropped can of whipped topping
I had some trouble removing the broken switch because a lot of the frame was missing due to the damage from the dropped can. I tried a screwdriver first and then switched to a small putty knife, which someone else had suggested. Once the switch was loose and wires were accessible, I also had some trouble disconnecting them but they finally turned loose. After that the new switch was easily connected and popped back into the opening. Definitely take photos as you disconnect!
1. I unplugged the refrigerator/ freezer 2. Turned off water supply 3. Removed the screws that held the cardboard skirt in place 4. Unplugged the water tube from the push connect 5. Removed the screws around the water inlet to the ice maker 6. Remove the water fill tube 7. Install new water fill tube and put all the screws and plates back where they go
The rubber gasket had torn, and super glue only provided a temporary solution.
1. Emptied the crisper pan, 2. Removed it from the refrigerator, 3. Flipped it upside down, 4. Removed the old one by pulling it off, 5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and 6. Reversed the process.
No ice cubes, ice down the inside back of freezer, constant buzzing noise.
Followed instructions from an existing video on this site. This site is very helpful both with regard to diagnostics and then removal/installation of the failed part.
I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.
The defrost heater failed. The coils frosted completely over so no airflow to the fridge. Step 1. Empty the freezer. Ice maker and top shelf can stay. Remove power, pull plug or open breaker. Step 2. Remove shelves and bottom food drawer. Step 3. Remove bottom food drawer rails. 2 phillips screws on each side. Step 4. Remove back panel, 2 screws at the top. Work panel out. Note there may be a green ground wire hook on it at the top. This will expose the heater and the cooling coils. The heater is at the bottom of the cooling coils and is the width of the coils. Step 5. There will be 2 wires, one on each end, and two phillips screws holding it in. Wires pull straight out. Note which way the heater is installed and remove the 2 screws. Step 6. Assemble in reverse order. Be very careful with the heater. It is in a glass tube and is very easy to break.
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.