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I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
Internal light did not come on each time the door was opened.
After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.
Switch was not working after a repairman had fixed something else
Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.
At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.
My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate (manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite works. Walla! It did. Thanks!
The door gasket was very hot which is caused by an overheated expansion line that runs along the area of the door gasket. This was caused by a failed cooling fan motor.
Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.
Bottom shelf support between crisper drawers broke
It was simple to just replace the shelf support. This is the thrid time I have used Parts Select for replacment parts. They always have the parts in stock, ship really quickly and it's a beeze to search their site for the parts I needed every time. Parts Select is now at the top of my Favorites list when it comes to appliance repair needs. Thanks to everyone at Parts Select!
Researched this problem on the web. Disassembled the main refrigeration unit (slide out freezer floor panel). The cooling coils were completely iced up. Thawed overnight. Tested the coil thermostat with a multimeter and discovered it worked. Note that the activation temp on this thermostat is 15 degrees Fahrenheit so the ice-water bath test on many web videos will NOT work. My test was in another refrigerator freezer compartment (everyone has two, right?). When the temperature went below 15 and stayed there for 15 minutes, the thermostat opened the circuit. Further investigation revealed that the defrost heater was burnt and shorted. Replaced the defrost heater only to discover that the defrost timer was also broken. After replacing the defrost timer and testing each component thoroughly, the refrigerator is back in service. Freezer maintains about 8 F and the main refrigerator stays at about 36. The unit cycles off properly and the defrost timer is correctly initiating a defrost cycle. Further, when the defrost heater is cycled on, the thermostat correctly shuts it off once the coils are defrosted. Watch the youtube videos. Find your parts and note their specifications so you can test them properly. And good luck.
Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!
Pulled the fridge out, Took bottom panel off. Removed 3 screws holding motor. Unplugged connector, cut wires, attached old connector on new motor. put blade on new motor.installed in fridge, put cover back on.
